Date:         Mon, 14 Jul 1997 11:23:34 -0500
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Randy Newell" <rnewell@epower.net>
Subject:      Re: Upper A-Arm Bushing repair 

Actually, I took it to the local VW shop, the bolts were rusted together so
I knew it would be a REAL pain to get it apart with my still limited (but
getting larger by the week) tool supply. You guys might want to get a
mechanic opinion before you jump in. The local VW shop has gotten so much
business from me (oil seal repair, tires) that they don't even charge me
for a quick "put it on the lift to see what's up". They only charged me 1
hr @ $34 per. Cheapest I've seen for a mechanic anywhere. I guess they
figure they will always get you on the parts, but I had my own, which they
didn't seem to mind. In fact, they were very curious as to where I got
them, seems that they like to sell the off-brand parts when they can
too,... 
Randy Newell
rnewell@epower.net

----------
> From: Carl Hansen <Carl_Hansen@ATK.COM>
> To: Multiple recipients of list <vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu>
> Subject: Upper A-Arm Bushing repair 
> Date: Friday, July 11, 1997 4:40 PM
> 
>  BatSubject:     Upper A-Arm Bushing repair (long)      5/30/97    9:43
AM
> Hi, I am reposting this 'cause I couldn't find it in the archives, and I
> recall at least one question about how to do this in late June.  I
stumbled
> across a copy, remembered my promise to Randy Newell to send it, and
there you
> are.
> 
> Perhaps someone can tell me how to make sure this gets to the appropriate
> person that can add it to FAQ's or Technical Hints, or???  There is a
correct
> place to archive it, I can't seem to find the bookmark at the moment.
> 
> Ch                                                             Any Tool
can be
> the right tool
> '89 Syncro Beast
> '86 Scirocco
> '87 GTI 16V
> 
> 
> ******************************************************
> HOW TO, UPPER A-ARM BUSHING REPAIR.  DoItYourSelf
> 
> 1.  Jack up the front, yank on the top of the wheel, push in and out.  If
it's
> loose and rattles, yup, at least one bushing is shot.  The wear mode on
mine
> was that the inner sleave locks to the outer sleve and then everytime the
> suspension unloads on the right, or compresses on the left, the forces
are
> such that the nut on the long bolt that holds the whole thing together
> loosens.  You lose the alignment, and hear rattles and clunks.  It is
very
> easy to tell, you can see stuff move "up there".
> 
> 2.  So take it all off.  Follow Bently, he won't stear you wrong.
> 
> 3.  Do do both sides, if one is gone, the other is probably not far
behind. 
> When you're done, go to the dealer and have him do a front alignment.  By
the
> way, tell him to check for anything else you should do before the
alignment
> BEFORE he does the alignment.  My guy charged ahead, did the alignment,
and
> later noted that the lower rubber bushings were shot, the tie rod ends
were
> gone, the wheel bearings were going,    etc. etc....  You should check
some of
> that yurself while you have the front up.  
> 
> Make sure your Alignment shop has teh updated data for alignment of a
Syncro. 
> Derek Drew did a nice posting of the details and this should be in the
> archives.  Look for "Alignment For Vanagon Syncro" and message number
> "msg07812".  I am reading this from the sheet I printed, and note that
Derek
> first posted this on 17 Mar 1994, and reposted sending the info to Joel
Walker
> on8 Aug 1996.
> 
> 4.  OK, how do you get the bushings out.  oof da.  It's nice to have a
> hydraulic press handy, but I think it can be done w/o.  In any event, you
will
> probably have to "help" things out a bit due to the rust you will find.
> 
> 5.  How to help the bushings out.  
>    o  Cut the fat end off the bushing.  I used a band saw, it can be done
with
> a hacksaw.  You are cutting thru a thin shell, some plastic, and a thick
inner
> steel sleeve so be patient.  Cut as close to the a-arm as comfortable,
but no
> farther away than about 1/8 inch.  You need to break an inner connection
of
> thin metal to thin metal that can make it hard to press out the inner
steel
> sleave FIRST.
>   o  Press out the inner steel sleave.  Support the a-arm, or outer
portion of
> thebushing, and bang on it.  It is just in there with plastic.  (and
probably
> some rust)
>   o  Split the hacksaw so you can insert the blade into the middle of the
> bushing.  Carefully cut the bushing lengthwise.  This helps to release
the
> bushing from the a-arm by releasing some of the pressure.  You are
cutting
> plastic, and a thin metal outer portion of the bushing.  BE CAREFUL.  DO
NOT
> CUT ALL THE WAY THRU.  YOU DON'T WANT TO CUT THE A-ARM.
>   o  Take a cold chisel and bang the thin end of the bushing into the
center
> of the hole.  Do it all around, be careful to NOT HIT THE A-ARM, you
don't
> want to gouge that up.  You can bang on whats left of the fat end also. 
That
> helps to release the rust.
>   o  When you've got the fat end cut off, the small end collapsed, and
the fat
> end banged on, you're ready to try to press the thing out.
>   o  Press the thing out.  Sorry, no tricks or short cuts here.  Either
use a
> hydraulic press, or a hammer and socket, or??? what ever you have access
to. 
> I used a hydraulic press, but I think that as easy as it came out after
all
> the cuts and chiseling, that you could use a big hammer.  Support the
a-arm so
> that the bushing can come out. 
>   o  Smooth out the a-arm where you nicked it.  trust me, I know you did,
I
> did, it's not easy to never hit it with the chisel.  Just do your best to
not
> hit it, and file off the rough edges in the FEW places you did hit it
> accidently.
>   
>   o  Now you are just about done.  Optional, I put some anti-sieze on the
> outer surface of the new bushing to prevent rust a bit and maybe in the
next
> 150,000 miles it'll be easier to take out.  ;)
>   o  Carefully press the new bushings in.  Press in straight.  Press on
the
> outer portion of the fat end, do not press on the inner portion of the
steel
> sleve.
> 
> OK, now you are done and can put the a-arms back togther.  Follow Bently
> again.
> 
>   o  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:  DO BUY NEW allen head bolts for the upper ball
> joint.  I had to take my front apart a second time, two weeks later and
had
> just as much trouble loosening thes 2 per side bolts as I did the first
time. 
> Of course, by that time, the heads stripped out and I ended up chisseling
two
> off, and vise gripping one other off.    
> 
>   o  Allign the front.  Keep in mind my caution from above, check all the
> other stuff on the front BEFORE you spend money aligning the Front.  It's
no
> fun taking it apart again.  Especially note the detailed information on
> Alignment spec's from Derek Drew.  See the Archives.
> 
> It all can be done by u at home in the garage.  Remember:
> 
> There is nothing you can't do, just stuff you haven't done yet.    and
> 
> The hardest part of any job is starting.    and 
> 
> Any tool can be the right tool.  (Courtesy Red-Green Show)
> 
> Go for it.
> 
> Ch
> '89 Syncro Beast
> 
>