Date:         Wed, 27 Aug 1997 06:49:26 -0700
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "CARVER, JEFFREY D" <Jeffrey.Carver@AEROJET.COM>
Subject:      Re: sliding door handle broken?

Hi all -
Sean wrote -
- - - - - - - -
When I shove the handle back in, I can get the door handle to work like
it's supposed to, i.e. it locks, unlocks, and opens the door. So it
looks like something is loose in there, possibly a retaining clip has
come adrift. I plan to take it apart as there's not really anything
holding the handle in the door at this moment. But I'd appreciate any
suggestions on what to look for from those who've had this problem
before.
 - - - - - - - and then he spoke again - - - - - -
I seem to have fixed the sliding door handle problem I was experiencing.

I removed the inside door handles, and then pulled off the door panel.
I found a loose screw on the latch/lock assembly that had managed to
back itself out quite a bit. I assumed that this had something to do
with it, and so inserted the handle/lock assembly all the way in, then
tightened down the loose screw. that seems to have done the trick as
the door handle now works like it's supposed to. Also, it doesn't pull
out of the door anymore, which makes me happy :-)
So whatever that screw did, I think tightening it fixed the problem.

- - - - - * * * * * - - - - -

Here's the scoop on the problem and solutions -

After gloating (for awhile, anyway) that MY sliding door handle won't
fall off as I have routinely tightened up the screw holding it on, it
finally happened to me.  Here's the problem and a CHEAP solution.

The handle is held onto a sleeve with a single machine screw.  The
sleeve is held into the handle mechanism by a small amount of staked
metal and kept from rotating by the square (rounded off) shape of the
sleeve.  Over time the grease gets old and hard and as one has to
push/pull/rotate harder to open door, the staked metal gets deformed
back to the original position or gets sheared off, allowing the
handle to be pulled out.  The handle mechanism is riveted together
and would be an unreasonable object to re-assemble after dismantling.
The problem is how to hold the sleeve and handle in place as a unit,
since the sleeve cannot be trusted.
Anyway on to the FIX.

Parts needed:
5mm x .8 pitch x 20 mm machine screw, price $.20
(phillips head, not the hex head) smaller head than hex
3/16 in x 1 in fender washer, price $.05

Proper fix - Remove door panel, remove both forward and rear door
mechanisms clean and grease everything that moves.  The adjustment
mechanism for the cable to the rear latch is easy to re-adjust so
don't sweat that, just loosen and disconnect the front c-clip.

The rear latch rotating part must be in the latched position to be
able to fit through the door panel.  That spring in the rear is a
tough one, but move the mechanism to all positions to grease
everything.  The front mechanism is actually actuated by the rear
latch and cable, slide the cable attach to actuate the front latch.

Re-assemble latches but before installing latch mechanism for open
position catch install the 25 cent solution.

Lightly grease flat area where handle end comes through, place washer
on that spot and screw in machine screw to end of handle inserted
from outside of door.  Tighten up until screw bottoms out in hole in
handle.  You might need a screw of slightly different lengths if your
handle screw hole is of a different depth.

Reason this works:
The fender washer allows the force of pulling the handle OUT to be
transferred directly to the latch housing instead of to the sleeve.
The machine screw rotates in the fender washer hole allowing rotation
for the handle and by bottoming out in the handle the screw won't
loosen itself up.

Quick fix -
Just do the screw installation, but you shall at least feel guilty of
NOT greasing the mechanism.

For those of you who have NOT had their handle fall off, do the PM
and grease your mechanisms.

A really easy way of greasing these mechanisms is to use a chain
lube, such as PJ1, found at motorcycle shops.  It sprays on really
thin, but after it evaporates, it leaves a really thick grease.  Give
it time to dry before working the mechanisms.


- Jeff  IwannasunroofDeluxe!
'80 Westi  '67 Sqbk  '64 Ford Crewcab  '87 Subaru 4WD
Grass Valley, California, USA
Jeffrey.Carver@Aerojet.com