Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 17:39:24 -0700
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Erik Rhodes <ErikRhodes@platsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Computer Problem?
Thanks for the good info, everyone, so many good knowledgeable people on
this list it's amazing.
Check this out: Today I found a place that troubleshoots and rebuilds
fuel injected parts and a guy there actually had a machine that checks
the computers, I hadn't heard that there was such a thing but it makes
sense there has to be. (Brett Industries in Santa Ana California, if
anyone is interested, very nice guy).
He plugged it in and said it was definitely giving off wrong readings,
definitely something wrong in there. He doesn't sell them and he
checked it for free, so he wasn't trying to sell me one.
So anyway, a couple of other people on the list have suggested vacume
leaks or maybe the decerator valve (that would be a good explanation why
it doesn't lower the RPM as it should when I stop at lights after being
warmed up). Those sound more likely than the computer, I'll check them
first before I replace the computer; who knows, maybe the computer is
indeed messed up inside, but not in a way that would affect normal
functioning (Am I trying to convince myself I won't have to pay the big
bucks for a control unit? Sigh...)
In case I have to replace the control unit, does anyone know a good
place to get one? The only place I can pinpoint is one in Torrance, CA.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Erik
> ----------
> From: Tom Young[SMTP:young@sherlock.SIMS.Berkeley.EDU]
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 1997 5:10 PM
> To: Erik Rhodes
> Cc: Multiple recipients of list
> Subject: Re: Computer Problem?
>
> On Fri, 8 Aug 1997, Erik Rhodes wrote:
>
> > In my '79 westphalia, I've got some kind of fuel injection
> > problem that has been befuddling me for a great while. It starts up
> > fine but as soon as it warms up and the cold start valve starts
> turning
> > off, it gets way weak and sometimes even dies if I don't up the RPM.
>
> The cold start valve is powered only when the starter is turning over
> the
> engine. Once you switch from "Start" to "Run" the cold start valve is
> no
> longer in the game. However, the auxiliary air regulator starts out
> wide
> open with a cold engine and slowly closes as the engine warms.
>
> > When it finally gets warmed up and driving, it's fine, runs like the
> > happy beast it is while it's temperature is in the medium range.
> But
> > within twenty minutes of driving--I'm guessing when the temperature
> has
> > reached full operating temp--I stop at a stop light and the RPM is
> too
> > high, probably around 1300-1600RMP, though I haven't tested it yet.
> >
> > I've replaced the temp head sensor and fixed a weak ground
> > connection and now just finally got a spiffy new Bosch air flow
> meter
> > (aye, this cost a pretty penny, but I needed it for smog check
> anyway)
> > and each thing has actually improved the driving in other ways--lots
> > more power now--but I still have this problem.
> >
> > I can't think of anything left it could be except the control
> > unit, ye old computer itself. Visual inspection shows hoses and
> such
> > are fine, no cracks or nuthin. Has anyone ever seen anything like
> this?
>
> It *could* be a vacuum leak; visual inspection just isn't enough
> sometimes to find every leak, particularly if the leak is on the
> bottom
> of the hose. (The hose running from the decel valve to the large
> intake hose on my bus had such a leak, although the hose looked fine.)
>
> I'd first do a thorough inspection for leaks. Might also test the #1
> temp sensor, though you'd hope with a new air flow meter this wouldn't
> be
> a problem.
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Tom Young young@sherlock.SIMS.Berkeley.EDU
> Lafayette, CA 94549 '81 Vanagon
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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