Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 02:52:45 UT
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes57@CLASSIC.MSN.COM>
Sender: Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes57@CLASSIC.MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: Drain/Fill Coolant Loop W/O Burping
Replacing the hot water from the engine with cold water from a bucket sounds
like a sure fire way to warp the head. I sure hope no one tries this with a
water boxer. Coolant changes should always be done on a cold engine.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon mailing list On Behalf Of Mark B. Magee
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 1997 10:17 PM
To: Vanagon@GERRY.SDSC.EDU
Subject: Drain/Fill Coolant Loop W/O Burping
Volks,
Picked up my Diesel Westy from my expert mech last Saturday who, after
numerous and unnamed trials with the beast gave it back to me road
ready. However due to previous coolant leaks same mech left in tap water
for me to drive with to ensure all leaks in coolant loop secured. I was
a little unhappy with the tap water due to high calcium content (I left
him 4 gals distilled!) so I shared my unhappiness with him. He said to
dump and refill/re-bleed would be another hour and shared a neat way to
drain the coolant loop and refill without having to re-burp the system.
This was all on the 82 Diesel, but my 87 wasserboxer seems configured
similarly.
Here it is:
1) Take the top hose (highest one on tank) going in to the pressurized
coolant tank (header tank)off, this is the hose coming from the block or
water pump. Take the cap off the header tank.
2) Get some hose, I didn't have any hose so I used 1" PVC pipe, and
shove the hose that you pulled away from the tank into it. Run this hose
in to a 5 gallon or large container to catch the old coolant. My PVC rig
was crude yet effective, next time I will purchase hose of proper
diameter.
3) The idea now is to have your flush water/coolant additives etc at the
ready and then start the engine. If cold, nothing will come from the
hose/pipe until the thermostat opens. Once it does, the water flowing
out is the old/dirty/need to be gotten out stuff.
4) Now refill the header tank as the level falls, if you wish to flush
w/distilled, then put in the distilled first and flush. The clean water
will circulate all the way forward to the radiator and then be returned
to the block and then into your hose/pipe and then collected. Rev the
engine if you want, but be ready to fill that tank quickly, if it goes
dry you lose, for it may have sucked an air bubble through.
5) Once you feel you've flushed enough then put in the
Ethylene/Propylene glycol/Water Wetter etc you want. This manuever is a
little tricky for some mixing will occur here disturbing your
water/additives concentration. If the clear running water starts turning
the color of your coolant you can still continue to add the same, but
you are now losing some overboard into your collection tank. I will just
put in pure (100%) ethylene glycol into the boilover tank to increase my
mix.
6) Once you have put in the desired amount of coolant additives into the
header tank, shut off the engine. Remove the hose/pipe from the coolant
line you removed, careful and don't get burned, that water is hot!
7) Re-attach the heater hose to header tank and the job is finished. NO
burping for no air was ever introduced to the system, as long as you
don't let the header tank run dry.
NOTES:
a) DO NOT let the header tank run dry during this process, you -will-
introduce an air bubble and have to burp (bleed) the system.
b) You Northerners (Yankees?) and otherwise cold climated folks, I would
not think using freezing cold water would be too smart, I envision hot
engine blocks being entered by cold water as meaning a cracked block.
YIKES! Get it to room temp at least, easy here in SE Texas.
This whole thing took me 30 minutes with just myself and my three year
old, and he was chasing birds nearby.
Regards
Mark B. Magee
87GL 80K
82 Diesel Westy
Kemah TX
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