Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:28:01 -0400
Reply-To: Ralf Kalscheuer <ralfk@POP.EROLS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From: Ralf Kalscheuer <ralfk@POP.EROLS.COM>
Subject: Intermittent loss of power famous stalling problem again
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi Volks,
I am still dealing with that famous Vanagon stalling problem. Engine will
just start fine and after 5 minutes run like a dog and black smoke is
filling the air. I followed a couple of suggestion from other listies but I
am still not able to fix it. Wife and kids are getting desperate because
its their only vehicle.
I am driving a 86 Golf which is a stick shift, however spouse doesn't like
to drive stick.
Here are things I tried so far:
1. Put in a special noise reduction harness between the air-flow sensor and
ECU harness.
2. Changed one temp sensor (blue) why change two?
3. Air-flow control unit (surface of resistance showed wear)
4. Ignition parts rotor, distri. cap, cables, and plugs (new plug turn
black after 15 minutes).
5. O2 sensor
I thought that the problem was fixed after step 1 but after I put back my
AC compressor trouble started again. First it was intermittent, running
fine for hours and now the problem seams to be there all the time. I did
extensive measuring on the Digifant ECU where I monitored most of the
essential input data (even ran test points from the ECU to the outside of
the unit).
Temp sensor resistance is working just fine follows pretty much the Bentley
chart although the voltage level is under 1Volt going down even further
when engine heats up. Before, stalling started usually after driving for 10
Minutes. Anyone can give me some hints on voltage levels for Pin 10 = temp.
Enrichment switch operation seams normal as well, 101 and signal reaches
the ECU as well.
O2 input on pin 2 show a voltage level of around 800mV, which is the right
voltage for a rich running engine (lots of Co2, looks like a stinking
Diesel with defective oil scrapper rings).
When the air-flow meter unit was replaced, I did not make any adjustments.
Is it necessary?
Throttle position changes of the air-flow unit are changing on pin 21 at
ECU connector.
Anybody have any voltage level here too.
In general it would be nice if someone did some measurement exercises on a
working Vanagon
Digifant ECU and make this results public for all Vanagoneers.
Checked all the grounding of the engine that looks alright as well.
I still don't believe that the ECU itself is bad, I opened it up and it
look fine, but you never know.
Since the ECU would be a major expense, you can imagine why I don't believe
it is the ECU.
I wonder if some guru out there ever tried to troubleshoot the DIGIFANT ECU
and it associated input/output signals.
Again all tips and tricks are welcome.
If I can not fix it, I will convert to Weber IDE carbs I heard from people
in Germany that they do that all the time because the Digifant fuel
injection is grosse Scheisse (big shit).
Best Regards!
Ralf
Ashburn, Va
>From: Ron Mighton <rmighton@PASSPORT.CA>
>Subject: Intermittant loss of power
>To: Vanagon@GERRY.SDSC.EDU
>
>Way back in early September I sent this message to you volks.
>
>
>>From: Ron Mighton <rmighton@passport.ca>
>>Subject: Intermittant loss of power
>>
>>I have a 90 westfalia that about once a month or so loses power after
>running about 2 miles. It will slow right down and stall. i can always start
>it right up again and it will run oK at an idle but backfire and stall if
>given any gas. It will do this for maybe about 2 minutes then as it gets a
>bit warmer it runs fine again an the problem may not happen again for weeks.
>I have checked for bad grounds but all looks fine . I would be grateful for
>any suggestions. thanks in advance.
>
>
>I wanted to thank the many respondants E Miskow,Joel Walker, T Bill,
>Lawrence Johnston, Ken Lewis, Joe Wagner, Don Gibbons and David Katsuki. The
>suggestions were
>great and so much more helpful than my local dealer who had no suggestions.
>
>Suggestions were:
>
>Put in a special noise reduction harness between the air controland the
>normal connector. This was a good idea and had been done already by the PO.
>
>Check the connections to the temperature sensors and/or replace the two
>temperature sensors which did fix one similar case.
>
>Three suggestions to check the oxygen sensor and i think THATS IT.
>
>It has taken me all this time cause the problem is sooo intermittant. But it
>did fail one day and immediately got better when I unplugged the oxygen
>sensor. I ran for a month with the sensor unplugged and no problems. I just
>replaced the oxygen sensor with the $49 one from Ron Salmon and all still
>seems OK. I will have to go for a couple of error free months to be sure so
>I will let you know. Many thanks again for all the help. This really is a
>very supportive and helpful group.
>I'm proud to be a part of it. (Actually I'm the gratefully getting help
>part.)
>Ron Mighton
>Toronto,Canada Eh!
>
>
