Date:         Thu, 2 Oct 1997 17:09:12 -0700
Reply-To:     "harald.nancy" <harald.nancy@MCI2000.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From:         "harald.nancy" <harald.nancy@MCI2000.COM>
Subject:      CAT HEATER INSTALLATION IN VANAGON
Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

With respect to Blake's question:
I have 5200 btu  Platinum Cat in my '90 westy .Used it for many years
without a problem. I love the heater. Since it is vented, it does not
release any fumes into
the van.  It's efficient, reliable, safe, and quiet.
It is not a forced air heater. It works by convection, which also keeps it
quiet and the
current draw to a minimum. It has made camping possible year-round.
Current draw is only  "0.5" AMP for the exhaust  fan. Equal to a miniature
light bulb.
The heater comes with a thermostat, so it shuts off . Just like in a home.
It is very efficient, but effective. The 5200 btu uses 1/4 pound hr, 3000
btu, uses1/8 pound hr.
But remember, the heater cycles on and off. I like the big one. Ours
runs off the camper propane tank.
I went to a marine heater store, the kind that sells boat
heaters. They were very helpful. Had all the fittings and the propane hose.
Special fittings need to be installed on both ends of the hose. Consult a
professional
before you start. Or better let them do the work, if you can talk them into
it. Liability, codes, etc.  I had to do it myself, for that reason.
These are not instructions to follow, but might help a professional .
This is how my heater was installed:
I have an additional tee fitting on the exit line from the tank, where the
pipe for the stove and the heater are connected. Screw in a small shut- off
valve, to which you connect the hose for the "Cat". Be careful not to kink
any of the propane tubing. Use approved sealant on all the fittings. Don't
make any sharp turns with the hose. I routed the hose along the
cross-member
under the fuel tank to the other side, where the heater is to be installed.
Use lots of  professional grade cable ties. Protect the LP hose from any
abrasion and impact.
My heater is behind the front passenger seat, facing the back. I
fabricated a 1/2" oak plywood board, and  fastened it against the back of
the batt. box. Use only short screws, don't drill into the battery. Dull
any sharp edges. The board has to be somewhat bigger than the heater
itself, to protect the unit and to help reflect the heat. Mount the  heater
against  the board, 2" off the floor. Check the manual for proper spacing.
Also made a shield for the floor, to protect the carpet from heat and the
heater from hair etc. that might otherwise be sucked up into the unit.
Shield is about 6" by 14" or so. Now the tricky part.
This is very important.
The "cat"  has to be at least  9" away from the lower door jam. The exhaust
on my heater exits on the right side of the heater housing, about halfway
up. It is possible to change the exit for the vent on the heater. There
has to be enough space between the heater and the doorjamb, to route the
exhaust vent through the floor.
Straight down, next to the right of the heater.  You need at least 9",
since there is a frame member under the sliding door opening, which must
not be
damaged. Also stay away from the frame for the floor- jack. The certified
installer has to drill 2  holes. One 1  1/2" for the vent, and one 1" or so
for the propane hose. Hold the heater in place, before you drill any holes,
so you know where the fuel line and the exhaust have to exit. Be sure there
are no vital organs in the way , like fuel line, fuel pump, wiring.
Then mark the center of  those two round openings, that you want to cut
out, with a small drill bit. Look under the car to check that you have
enough space to widen those holes. Now mount the "cat" to the board, so the
openings for the LP and for the exhaust are in the right place. Pull  the
other end of the LP hose from under the car through  the small opening in
the floor.

Important: Make sure you install a grommet around the sheet-metal in both
openings. The LP hose and the exhaust vent may not rub against the sharp
edges, or they could be damaged. That could be dangerous.
Fasten the brass fitting of the LP hose to the heater. Make sure the
installer uses teflon sealant. The stuff that is like a  paste, not the
tape. Align the heater again, if it moved while installing the hose. Now,
run the
vent hose around the "cat", but against the board, down through the big
opening in
the floor. Direct  the vent hose under the vanagon  to the back of  the car
along the
frame under the door.
My vent goes back  about 30". Make sure the installer runs it far enough
away from the fuel filler. Any warm vent line should be kept a minimum
distance
from the fuel filler. Check in the codebook for LP installations .Make
sure there are no low spots for water to collect  in the vent.
Again, use lots of cable ties to fasten the vent to the lower frame-member.
The ones you can use sheet metal screws with. Tell your installer to use
electrician's putty to seal around the two openings through the floor.
Oh boy, now comes the electric hook-up.  Electric is fairly simple. Just
follow the instructions in the "cat" manual. Run a hot 12 volt  wire from
the battery
or other source to the "cat". Make sure your installer puts in a  " Inline
fuse" 10 Amp or so  that is easily accessible. Hook the hot wire up to the
heater and ground the heater. Then hook the heater up to the thermostat. My
thermostat is on the same board the heater is mounted to. Experiment to
find the best location for the thermo.
Use soap and water to test for leaks in the propane line.
When the installer turns the heater on, make sure it pushes enough air
through the vent out. Hold your hand against the exhaust. You should be
able to
feel warm air coming out. If exhaust is blocked, the heater turns itself
off.
Things to consider:
Have the installation done by a professional LP installer.
ONLY USE MARINE GRADE FITTINGS AND HIGH PRESSURE HOSE.
RATED  FOR USE IN LP INSTALLATIONS.
Make sure the heater is far enough away from the outside wall, so the
installer can route the vent out of the right side of the heater and down
through the floor, and not damage the frame and cross-members under the
vanagon.
Make sure the installer uses grommets to protect the LP hose and the vent
pipe. Make sure he or she uses Teflon paste on all fittings and checks for
LP  leaks.
Good idea to check for leaks once a year anyway.
Have the installer put in a separate shut-off valve, that you can turn off
if the unit is not in use, like in the summer.
Use common sense. LP can be very dangerous stuff. Don't underestimate it.I
understand
that there are different ways to install a "cat".
Hope this might be of some help to you and others. To achieve vented heat
in a vanagon is very difficult, since the space is so small. Take care.
Harald, '90 westy.

Disclaimer :
 I cannot be responsible for the content of this letter, since I am not a
trained LP
technician. I might have made some mistakes; you have to follow your own
judgement, if
you decide on such an installation. I only told you about the heater in my
vanagon
westfalia, and how it works.  I advise any interested party to consult a
professional
installer.