Date:         Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:34:44 -0800
Reply-To:     W Li <wli@U.WASHINGTON.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From:         W Li <wli@U.WASHINGTON.EDU>
Subject:      Eurovan mudflaps
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

I just completed installing custom mudflaps to my 95 EuroCamper. Attached
is a description of this worthwhile project.

Eurovan Mudflap Installation (long)

 Here is how to install mudflaps in a Eurovan inexpensively.

1) buy 4 heavy duty rubber mudflaps 15" x 20"
2) get pressure-treated 2 x 4;  about 4' length
3) get 2.5" and 1.5" stainless steel metal screws and washers
4) get assorted SS nuts, bolts and washers
5) plan on using two full sized flaps on the front
6) cut third flap in half to get two 15" x 10"
   pieces to use the rear flaps
7) cut fourth flap to get one 11" x 15" piece
   and one 9" by 15" (see below)

left front flap
-remove wheel and support frame securely
-drill 4 mounting holes in an 8" piece of 2 x 4
-drill smaller pilot holes thru wheel well to match
-smear butyl builders caulk on back of 2 x 4 liberally
(this will effectively prevent any water to enter drilled holes)
-screw in using 2.5" SS screws nice and tight to squish the caulk
-mount mudflap onto wood using 1.5" SS screws and washers
-set it up so that lower edge of flap is 4" above ground
-outside edge should extend beyond body only 1"
-inner edge curves to cover a cannister in the well
-remount wheel and retorque wheel bolts

right front flap
-remove wheel
-use a 14" piece of 2 x 4
-mount it the same as above
        and
-take the 11" x 15" flap and mount it in the front of the well
(to protect the A/C dryer and associated hoses from rocks)
-trim the inner edge to fit curvature of fender
-mount with SS bolts and washers to existing holes
-remount wheel

right rear flap
-remove wheel
-cut 12" piece of 2 x 4 and trim so it fits outside I-beam frame
-secure with one large SS bolt thru existing 0.5" hole in the beam
-set up so that front edge mates with cross piece
(cross piece is another 9" piece of 2 x 4 that extends
-outward from the beam to inside of the gray plastic bumper)
-secure both 2 x 4's to each other with SS screws
-outboard end of 2 x 4 is secured to the bumper with SS screws from
outside
-mount a second piece of scrap lumber to the crosspiece
(this will support the flap so it clears the front edge of the bumper)
-attach the flap with SS screws as you did for the fronts 4" ground
clearance
-remount wheel

left rear flap
-remove wheel
-here you can not get behind the I-beam as you did on the right side
(muffler heat shield is in the way)
-tap the existing small holes to accept two SS bolts
-make up a right angle bracket out of aluminum or galvinized steel
-this will support the wood crosspiece
-attach flap as you did on the right side
-remount wheel

propane tank flap
-last piece is that 9" by 15" flap
-orient it so the 15" dimension is transverse
-mount it on the gray stone guard to existing holes
-do not mount it to the white tank brackets
-cut a V to match the bottom of the body

My cost for the entire project was $40.
Only 8 holes were drilled thru metal (inside both front wheel wells)
Four holes were drilled thru the rear plastic bumper
Replacing the flaps in the future should be very easy
Any or all of the pressure-treated wood is replaceable
No damage to the existing under-coating
Only one metal-metal contact (left rear well) other than mounting hardware

On my 95 EV Camper, these flaps did the job of protecting vulnerable
areas (fender edges, A/C dryer, propane tank) from rocks... at a low
cost. It looks very good, and the flat black rubber mudflaps are
not very noticeable on casual observation. The front flaps were left
intentionally wide, as I wanted to provide rock protection at any angle.
The rears do not need to be as wide, obviously. I spent a lot of time
measuring and ruminating on how to do it, you will take maybe 1/2 day.

Hope this helps you EV'ers out there.....

Wei-i Li
95 EVC
93 Volvo 245
67 Volvo P1800