Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:58:53 -0800
Reply-To: Marilyn Nelson-Ehret <ehretrm@SEANET.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.sdsc.edu>
From: Marilyn Nelson-Ehret <ehretrm@SEANET.COM>
Subject: Re: Conversion Commotion
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
At 09:24 PM 12/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Volks,
> I see many posts about converting waterboxer vanagons to other forms
>of power plants and I'd like to put my 2 cents worth in on the subject.
>I'll probably get flamed for this but here goes. First, the boxer motor
>is a fine engine. Proper maintaince is the key. (as it is with all
>thing mechanical). Many of the problems with coolant leaks, IMHO, is
>VW's own fault. They tell the owners that the coolant system needs no
>maintance for 100K miles. I don't care who sells the product, green
>coolant needs to be flushed every 2 years or 24K miles. (the new red is
>said to go 100K) As the coolant runs through the system and with time,
>it starts to turn acidic. Cast iron can withstand that type of coolant
>alot longer than aluminum can. This is also when deposits build up and
>concentrates the acidic coolant. (right at the mating surfaces of
>those boxer heads) Subaru's used to have the same problem, they just
>figured out how to fix it. I remember subaru's needing headgaskets
>about every 50K miles. I guess VW figured it wasn't worth the trouble
>to fix the leaking problem considering the relative low production
>numbers of the Boxer engines. Many other countrys got in-line 4
>cyclinder engines (SA) or continued air-cooling much later than the US
>did. Anyone who has had experience with the boxer engine knows, many of
>the parts are direct from the realiable old Type 1 engine. Oil pump,
>cam, rocker arms and valve covers. Even the crank is nearly identical.
>Now many know how well the old type 1 engine held up to stress. So it
>watercooled cousin can hold up as well. Keep that coolant clean and
>you'll enjoy many years of trouble free driving.
> As an owner of a conversion vanagon (diesel to gas) I cannot look down
>my nose at anyone who wishes to do the same. However, the one thing
>that bothers me is trying to install a non-VW engine. Now, many have
>and will convert their bus to Subagons, Vanachevys or Porschnagon
>there's not much I can do about that. But let me say this, when you
>deciede to sell that bus, for whatever reason, the value of the bus will
>probably be less than one in similar condition with a stock motor.
>Many people will see the conversion and pass because its a hybrid and
>will not want the headaches. Plus the next owner will not have the
>advantage you have knowing what is in the bus. This will make it
>difficult to obtain parts and service. Many of those conversions need
>special fabricated parts, and what if they break on the new owner?
>Cost is another factor, I've seen the Porshe conversion cost nearly
>10,000 dollars (with the price of the motor and kit). I can rebuild a
>waterboxer about 5 times for that price. Even if you get 80K miles out
>of each boxer motor thats about 400,000 miles. With an average of 12K a
>year, the bus will be 33 years older by then. I don't think many buses
>will be road worthy at that point. Hey, you never know, lota splittys
>still out there.
> Your saying, well 'I plan on keeping this bus until its not worth
>fixing'. If you keep that bus until its dead, great. But what about
>servicing it yourself? Now you have to know how to work on a Subaru as
>well as a VW. Then you have to go over to subaru to buy engine parts
>and back to VW to buy the rest. Lots of extra time wasted. Don't even
>think of bring it to a dealer for service, they'll laugh you out of the
>shop. (many smaller shops will too) So now you have to do ALL the work.
>Maybe for you thats fine too. It might get old after a while.
> I guess what I'm saying is stick with what you got. Or as least keep
>it VW. My bus looks stock and all the parts come right from
>Volkswagen. So replacements are easy to get.
> I'll step off my soapbox now. You may return to your lives. Thanks for
>the time, take care.
>--
> Happy Holidays!!
>
> -Jim Digennaro
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>Jim, your comments were interesting to say the least. I too, until reading
your soapbox item, thought that it is OK not to change coolant per VW. This
doesn't make much sense to me because nothing lasts forever, however I
bought VW "don't need to change coolant". However, with 125,000 miles on my
90 Syncro Westy, I,m going to change coolant this weekend. Is it necessary
to use the phosphate-free antifreeze? Will the regular brand of coolant, ie
Prestone, Prime, work OK? Should I follow Bentley manual for R&R. Thanks,
Roger Ehret, Gig Harbor, WA (Limbo member)
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