Date:         Sun, 7 Dec 1997 14:26:08 +0000
Reply-To:     Brendan Irwin <bimtron@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From:         Brendan Irwin <bimtron@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      Waterboxer head gaskets
Comments: To: vanagon@lenti.med.umn.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

List,

        I have been reading a fair bit of email about the leaking head
situation, and figured it was time to throw in my 12 cents.

        Having moved up from a '78 camperbus to an '87 Westy back in the
summer, I have experienced several of the dreaded Vanagon problems.
However, with several hours of effort along with a little bit of cash
and an unbreakable desire to have this car working well, it is all
behind us.

        As you may or may not know, there are actually three distinct types of
head gaskets inside that motor.

        The first type resides between the steel cylinder liner and the
aluminum head and serves to keep the combustion gasses within the
cylinder. This is a laminated metallic ring and was the cause of my
problem. When these leak, high pressure gasses are forced into the
cooling system. The system over-pressures and coolant is forced out
through the vent in the overflow tank.

        The second is simply a thin o-ring that encircles the end of the steel
cylinder liner and seals it to the aluminum cylinder head. This seal
serves to keep the coolant away from the combustion seal (first type).
Two of these were blown in my engine, evidently not sufficient strength
to retain the combustion gasses in the cylinder.

        The third type is the one I have read the most complaints about, but
did not have a problem with. This is the thick grommet that seals the
outer aluminum cylinder jacket to the outside edge of the aluminum
cylinder head. Made of some pliable urethane-like synthetic, this seal
fits over the top edge of the cylinder jacket. Then, some special black
VW sealant gunk is put on the exposed sealing surface and the head is
put back on against this. So, the head is glued to the seal, and the
seal is pinched between both. The purpose of this seal is to keep the
coolant in the motor. It must remain pliable enough to maintain seal at
all temperature/expansion points of the motor. If this seal hardens due
to age, temperature effects or chemical exposure, it may break seal and
allow leakage.

        Unfortunately, labor is expensive. I got an estimate from VW of $850 to
change the gaskets on both sides. I was able to buy the two gasket sets
for $160, and spent eight hours putting them in. Not a bad shop rate for
myself.

        To make a long story short, this job is not overly difficult. As long
as you pay close attention to detail and make sure every sealing surface
is good and clean, you stand a very good chance of success. What seems
like the weakest link in an otherwise great vehicle; this is a job that
should not be allowed to end the dream. You do not have to pull the
engine, and it can be done in one day. I did the whole job in a parking
spot at my apartment complex and didn't even attract any attention from
management.

        Go for it!

Brendan
'87 Westy
'72 911T Targa