Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 02:22:53 -0600
Reply-To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Sender: Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From: Max/Joyce Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Subject: Re: Got my Fender Lips....
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
You might try and use a methylmethacrolate adhesive to avoid the drilling
an silicone. The cheap stuff you can get from Wal Mart's adhesives dept.
for about $3/syringe but I'm not sure how many syringes you'd need per
lip. The good stuff is closer to $15-20 a syringe but there's more in each
syringe. Dentists use this stuff for bonding so if you have a dental
buddy, you might try that route. My experience with the glue is from
bonding polycarbonates to kevlar and other composites in the whitewater
kayak and canoe outfitting trade. Kayak/canoe shops sell someting called
turtle grip from Dagger/Headwaters. Cure times depend on the formulation
but usually it sets in 10-30 minutes and is full strength in 24 hr. This
stuff is bomber!!! The industrial version is called Plexus. It all stinks
will setting up(dentists love the smell becuase it smells like "income").
Just a light sanding of the boody should give a proper bonding surface. If
that sounds too hard to do, go to big automotive store that deals in auto
body repair and look for a 2 part urethane adhesive body shop types use to
install plastic bumper strips on metal(3M product) It doesn't set for a
day so taping the lip in place or clamping it would be requireds and the
urethane is much more viscous than the methyl stuff. Good luck
Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel
----------
> From: JordanVw <JordanVw@AOL.COM>
> To: Vanagon@GERRY.SDSC.EDU
> Subject: Got my Fender Lips....
> Date: Monday, December 08, 1997 7:11 PM
>
> Hi, people - my fender lips, flares, whatever you want to call them,
arrived
> this eve via UPS..
> First of all, I want to thank Helmut Zeidler, and Tom Forhan, for getting
them
> to my doorstep.
> that said, a few observations about the fender lips...
> first of all, they are fiberglass, not rubber as I thought, and are
primed w/
> a black primer, and will need to be refinished.
> so, yes, they are fragile (you syncro 4 wheelers stay away from the
trees, you
> bust one, you're S.O.L.... ;<)
> secondly, I'm not bitching, but they do not have ANY provisions for
attaching
> to the body.
> So folks, break out the power drills, and start perforating your baby's
wheel
> wells.... :<O ~~~cringe~~~
> also, they are not "exact fit" as much as I'd like them to be.. there are
> little tabs that are supposed to fit in the lower horizontal body groove,
and
> the dont really fit into this groove all that well, so most likely these
> little tabs may have to be trimmed off.. (check yours against your van
first
> to see what i mean)
> the lips w/ the slot cut out of the top, are for the fronts..
>
> I'm guessing drilling holes, countersinking them (there's not really much
lip
> to countersink into since the lips are so thin) and using flat head
screws???
> extreme caution will need to be taken in order to minimize rust
> development...(i.e. silicon all the holes and screws prior to screwing
them in
> the holes...)
>
> sure woulda been nice if there was some provisions for attachment....
> sure hate the thought of riddling my doglegs with holes.... :<P~
> grumble... <----- no, no, I'm not bitching..... ;<)
>
> but they do look neat tho.. set them on my '87 w/ the stock steel wheels
> (makes the stock 14" steel wheels look really skinny!! LOL ;<) 15"
alloy
> wheels or Carat alloys would definately look better w/ the lips.. ;<)
>
> so, basically, no, it's not a "bolt on" deal... you're gonna have to
play w/
> them a little bit to get them to fit, but between all of us who ordered
them,
> I hope we can arrive at a appropriate way of mounting them that will also
keep
> the rust at bay....
>
> chris
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