Date:         Tue, 16 Dec 1997 02:46:13 -0600
Reply-To:     Budd Premack <bpremack@WAVETECH.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.sdsc.edu>
From:         Budd Premack <bpremack@WAVETECH.NET>
Subject:      Tow Bar - Custom Made for Vanagons
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Attention - All Tow Bar Devotees:

I have recently completed a 1500 mile tow of a 91 Carat using a custom
crafted bumper bracket that allows any 4 speed Vanagon to be effortlessly
towed with a standard tow bar.  After this initial tow, I discovered that
my tow bar bumper bracket will fit earlier Vanagons, even those with
different appearing bumpers.  It is now attached to my 84 parts Van, a hook
up which took about 30 minutes to accomplish.

The major advantages are cost savings (either purchase or rental) and less
towed weight.  A 2 wheel tow dolly weighs about 500-800 pounds, and a 4
wheel auto transporter trailer runs 1500-2000 pounds, according to my
U-Haul dealer.  They are also expensive to rent if you need them for
multiple days or one way tows.

Gross towed weight is especially important if your tow vehicle is smaller
and/or less powerful than a full size pick-up.  For instance, if you are
careful, you can even tow one Vanagon behind another Vanagon.  (This can be
a frequent occurance for those of us who own anything out of warranty, and
fear using up our yearly allotment of AAA tows.)

The tow bar also is imensely superior in safety and convenience as compared
to a tow chain or strap.  Additionally, a tow bar only requires one driver,
which may be reason enough to choose it over other methods.

The apparent difficulty in using a tow bar (which generally attaches to the
front bumper of the towed vehicle) is the fancy plastic or shiny chrome
bumpers that adhere to the front of most Vanagons, which would initially
appear to preclude the use of a tow bar.

The major conceptual leap is to simply unbolt the bumper and behold the box
frame behind it.  Then you realize that it is almost impossible to run long
bolts all the way through the box frame, so that the frame can be attached
securely to the tow bar.

What to do?   Please notice that the box frame has two holes near each end,
about 1/2 " in diameter.  Leap # 2 involves obtaining 2 u-shaped  3/8"
bolts, 3" long, 1 7/8 " inside spacing (center to center).  Amazingly, the
bolts can be manuevered right into the already exisiting holes in the box
frame.  (Naturally, the threaded ends of the
u-bolts should protrude out to the front, while the curved portion is
securely inside the box frame.)  Hold the u-bolts carefully or they may
slide into the box frame abyss and necessitate an emergency trip to the
hardware store.  (Although this didn't happen to me, I did come clsoe
several times.)

You now appear to have a way to fasten the Van to your tow bar. Just attach
the tow bar to the u-bolts with nuts, and maybe use some of that 1/4" by 3"
steel bar (which is referenced below) as an attachment device.  Cut two 6"
lengths of the 3" bar (one for the right, one for the left).  Drill 4 holes
of appropriate diameter in this bar.  The center two will bolt to the
u-bolts.  The outside two will bolt to the tow bar attachments.

However, if your tow bar is similar to the Rigid Hitch/U Haul version, it
will not open far enough to reach the u-bolts (which are at a predetermined
space at each end of the bumper box frame).  So, go visit your local steel
scrap yard and buy a 1/4 " thick by 3" steel bar, cut to about 5' 4'' in
length.  Then bend it to closely approximate the curve of the bumper box
frame.  Bending is really quite easy, if you put one end under a solid
object (such as the steel frame of a garage hoist), and apply appropriate
leverage.  Just don't try and bend it all at once.  As the Wicked Witch of
the North said, "These things must be done delicately."

CAREFULLY MEASURE AND DRILL appropriately placed holes in the long steel
bar to fit the u-bolts.  (The u-bolts are fixed in size and place, so this
is the most critical portion of the project.)   Also CAREFULLY measure and
drill holes in the long steel bar to fit the ends of the tow bar.  (This
isn't as critical as the tow bar is hinged and is adjustable to various
widths.)

If you are insistent about not scratching the never-to-be-seen-again bumper
box frame, you can cut 4" by 8" pieces from an old tire, drill/cut spacer
holes for your u-bolts, and place the tire sections (as a sort of a
protective large washer) on the u-bolts, between the box frame and the long
steel bar.

Bolt the u-bolts to the long bar.  Bolt the tow bar ends to the long bar.
Attach the tow bar to the tow bar ends (it comes this way for ease in
removal and storage).  Fit the tow bar securely to your hitch.  Attach
safety chains.  NOW, STAND BACK AND ADMIRE YOUR HANDIWORK.

If you are going any distance, and especially if you will be in traffic or
at night, get some lights and hook them up in a similar fashion to those
used on utility or boat trailers.  (A dual filament bulb assembly, with
taillights, turn signals, and brake lights is available for about $ 20 from
U-Haul.)

I used 3/8" u-bolts and 5/16" bolts for everything else.  Be sure to use
the HARDENED variety.  The total cost for all the steel, nuts, bolts,
washers, etc. should be under $ 25.  The tow bar can be rented from U-Haul
for $ 20/day, bought from various sources, or you can beg, borrow, or steal
one.

If you are towing one way, it is easy to remove the various components by
unbolting them.  They will easily fit inside any vehicle that is large and
powerful enough to be used as a tow vehicle.

Remember that the towed Van will be steering itself, so put the key in the
ignition and turn it just enough to disengage the steering column lock.  If
you will be leaving the vehicle, remove the key, but don't neglect to
replace it prior to futher towing.  Trust me, it is easy to forget this
small detail, and embarassing at a minimum to attempt to tow a Van whose
front wheels are locked.

Also, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO HAVE A TOW VEHICLE THAT WEIGHS MORE THAN THE
VAN.  If not, the minor steering corrections of the towed Van (over all
road irregularities) will cause a wiggle in the rear of the towing vehicle,
which will get VERY UNSTABLE AT HIGH SPEEDS.  If you stay under 40 mph, it
should not be nearly as critical.  (Those of you with an interest in mass,
momemtum, and vector analysis can explain the underlying principles to the
rest of us.)

Also, please remember that the towed Van has no available brakes, so be
very careful in traffic and on long downgrades.  If there is a "Slow Truck"
warning, it means you.

If there are any questions, please contact me.  And for those of you who
have read all the way to here, I am considering the possibility of lending
my unit to Listees.  However, I am concerned about possible liability
problems, as well as the logistics of
shipping about 50 pounds of steel, which is over 5' in length.  Responses
to these issues are solicited, as I feel the need to ponder for a while.

You can e-mail me at Bpremack@wavetech.net or, if you want to call, please
e-mail me first so that an appropriate time may be chosen.

Budd Premack
87 Wolfsburg, 84 Vanagon,  86 Syncro (for sale)
73 Super, 64 Bug
Minneapolis, MN