Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 15:15:11 CST
Reply-To: Joel Walker <JWALKER@UA1VM.UA.EDU>
Sender: Vanagon mailing list <Vanagon@Gerry.SDSC.EDU>
From: Joel Walker <JWALKER@UA1VM.UA.EDU>
Subject: Re: Bad heads and a noise
In-Reply-To: <v01530501b0af4183e365@[208.224.11.6]>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
ok, first of all: you need to make VERY sure it's really the heads that
are leaking. there are other things back there that can leak, and the
antifreeze will dribble/leak downwards and drip OFF the heads (but the
heads themselves will NOT be leaking).
flange - there is a little PLASTIC flange on the engine, just below the
alternator. there is a small hose going to it (the hose comes from up
at the top edge of the hatch opening). this flange warps and the o-ring
starts leaking. the coolant will drip off the right side head (usually)
and it looks for all the world like the Dreaded Head Leaks. you can get
a NEW flange, made up metal (surprise!), and replace the old plastic one.
cost: about $20. you'll need some new gasket material, too ... NOT an o-ring.
the new flange does NOT have a groove for an o-ring. i used some material
from NAPA, generic water-system gasket stuff with adhesive on one side.
about $4.
water pump - can dribble out of a "weep hole" when it starts going bad.
usually starts going bad if the previous owner did NOT replace the antifreeze
regularly every other year or so. the dribble can run down and drip off the
left head. about $200.
oil cooler - right above the oil filter. they have been known to leak, also.
not cheap. i think about $100.
coolant tank - leftmost plastic tank, on the rear wall of the engine
compartment. they develop hairline cracks (due to the heat) and leak when
they are warm. about $40 for the tank. also the coolant lever sensor, up
top on the tank, can develop a leak. about $20 with new o-ring. both of these
can leak down onto the muffler shield and onto the ground ... making you
THINK it's the left head leaking.
various hoses and/or hose clamps. as hoses get old, they don't contract as
fast as they used to ... so when you shut a warm engine off, the metal may
cool and shrink away from the hose, creating a leak. tightening up the clamp
can help, but you'll need to replace that hose sooner or later.
so, anyway, the first thing to do is make SURE you really really have the
leaking heads ... by checking out all the cheaper possibilities first! :)
good luck.
joel