Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Thu, 26 Feb 1998 13:30:52 -0000
Reply-To:     "Woodcock, Frank" <f.woodcock@UNISON.CO.UK>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Woodcock, Frank" <f.woodcock@UNISON.CO.UK>
Subject:      Aircooled Oil /Gas/ Breaks
Comments: To: Vanagon <vanagon@bigkitty.azaccess.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

First a BIG thank you for all the Emails about my gas overfill problem - I now half fill the tank and the gas fumes are no more, just the smell of oil through the heater vents- I shall replace the fuel overflow hoses soon.

My VW Transporter Camper Van is called 'Phoo' after the bear and reflects the body colour and oil fumes was built in 1980 and is a Holdsworth Villa conversion.

This type of van is known as:- Australia: Kombi. England and U.S.A. : Vanagon, westie (to westfalia) Eurovan. Denmark: Rugbrød (a danish bread "smørrebrød") Germany: Bulli. Hungary: Kocka (cube) The Netherlands: Vierkante bus, aardappelkist. (potatobox)

It had a replacement 2.0 Litre Air-cooled engine - mileage unknown - fitted just before I bought it in January 1998. The tailgate door lock was defective and a local locksmith (not key cutter) was able to re-pin it to match the other locks - cost the minimum bench charge of 5 pounds sterling far cheaper than a replacement lock - took him less than 10 minutes. All the interior lights were intermittent and I traced this to the interior roof light behind the sliding side door. Removing light fitting revealed the culprit. The wires were connected with Blue Scotch clips that pierce the insulation. The wires were stripped back and a screw terminal block used to make a better connection.

I do have some remaining questions that I cannot find answers....

What can I expect the oil consumption to be? - I am using about a quarter of a gallon every gas fill (250 miles)

When I unscrew the oil filler cap it is covered in a 'thick paste' which is cement colored and there is a similar deposit on the oil filler tube. The oil itself on the dip stick appears OK. Is this normal or is there a problem?

Now that leaded fuel (gas) is becoming expensive - can I use unleaded fuel without damaging the valves and if so which RON is best?

I have read Boston Bob Donalds (http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/) excellent 'Today's Fuels, Yesterday's Engines' and he says that the UK gas has a different formula (no alcohol?) and we also use the European RON standard - not (R+M)/2.

Bob Donald also says that the 93(R=M)/2 method octane 'high test' is not even sufficient for the upright VW engine with a posted minimum RON octane number of 91 as evidenced by early failures with evidence of over-heating and pre ignition.

From all of this I think that the main concern is that as leaded fuel keeps the valves lubricated, will changing to unleaded damage them or could I adopt the Ford Motor approach of using 3 fills unleaded, one fill leaded fuel?

Last but not least - I was recently flagged down by a taxi driver who said that I have no break lights. I checked them and the lights only come on when the pedal is hard to the floor.

The Eurovan (1980) has the brake light switch screwed into the break master cylinder. Can the 'light on point' be adjusted? - My Haynes manual does not show this.


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