Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 10:51:43 -0800
Reply-To: Malcolm Holser <mholser@ADOBE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Malcolm Holser <mholser@ADOBE.COM>
Subject: Re: A few questions...some obvious...some less
> In the past few days, there were a lot of talking about the
> content/density of O2 in the air at high altitude.I was left with the
> impression that vanagons cannot handle mountain driving very well since
> engine cuts out/stumbles due to misinformation being sent to the ECU
> from diverses sensors.
>
> Has anybody ever travelled extensively in the mountains likein the Rocky
> Mountains for example ? Did you experience the problems discussed above?
> If yes is the only way to cross the mountains to stop by the road side
> every 5-10 minutes and restart the vehicule in order to reset the ECU ?
> Does the weather (colder or rainy day for instance) influence the
> apparition of the stumbling symptoms ?
>
I live in the sierra Nevada in California, and have taken different Vanagons
over the sierras and over the rockys. They do fine -- but are pretty slow
and don't have a lot of power. The air density simply lowers their power
output -- it does not generally cause stalling. I figure at 10,000 feet
(3000m) that you might have 60% of the sea-level power available.
> Water pump
> 1-Is the water pump refer to as the same thing as the coolant
> pump
> when talking about cooling system ?
> 2-If it breaks down on the road, how can one know for sure that it is
> it? (symptoms)
> 3- Provided you have the necessary tools to change it, can it be done
> fast and easy on the spot?...or will the coolant leak on the ground ?
>
It is probably thesame as "coolant pump". It is easy enough to change, but
it is not a side-of-the-road job. They don't fail all that often, and usually
give warnings (like leaking). I have had one fail spectacularly, though.
Lots of coolant all over the place. The coolant will all come out when the
pump is removed. It is best to drain the system first.
> Spark Plugs
> 1-How often are we supposed to change spark plugs ?
Every so often. Maybe 50,000km.
> 2-Are we supposed to remove battery ground strap before changing the
> spark plugs ?
No need.
> 3- Is it a pretty straightforward job or is it difficult to access them
> and what size of "pliers" (can't find the word in english) is needed to
> change them.
Very easy, use a 13/16" spark-plug socket (get one at Canada Tire). Be
very careful to install them most of the way *by hand*, and only do the final
tightening by wrench. It is easy to damage the threads in the aluminum heads.
> 4-When changing spark plugs, can I just put it in or am I supposed to
> measure and then adjust it to vehicule specifications ?
You are supposed to. Get a plug-gap tool at Canada Tire when you get the
wrench. They can tell you the right gap to set, and show you how (even the
automotively-challenged folks at CT!)
> 4- What kind of spark plugs should I buy ? (Westy 1991)
>
The original ones were Bosch. They are good. So are most others. Personally
I like the Bosch Platinum, but others do not. I also like Nippondenso and NGK.
> Noise
> 1- I still haven't found out what is causing the "klang" type of noise
> coming from under the van. After moving for a couple hundreds of meters
> two clank type of noises are heard... It is strong enough for the
> pedestrians to look at you and wonder... It does it 2 times and then it
> is over until I park the van. Once parked and immobile, it does again 2
> times, then finished. Could it be the lifters ? or the shock absorbers ?
> or some kind of spring ? It does not seem to be related to the engine as
> this happen when in motion or just stopped . Any ideas what to check for
> ?
>
Maybe your dopplekanger is broken. Seriously, you might have a mechanic
jack up the van (maybe a VW dealer) and do an inspection. Usually worth
the very small fee. Just don't agree to *all* the work they will tell you
it needs. Probably not lifters. I might be your exhaust system, which
expands when hot, and might hit something on the way. You should hop out
after you stop and see if you can isolate the final klangs more.
> Tricker charger
> 1- Is it what is needed to have the 2 electrical outlets work like the
> wall outlets(110 volts) found in the houses? Is there archives on how to
> install it ?
>
You ought to get the two owner's books. The outlet inside the camper only
works when you plug the outside into a 110v outlet in a campground. A VW
dealer can order these for you -- the "Owners Manual" and "Camper Supplement".
The Canadian dealers should be able to get these in French, too.
> Pop-up roof
> The driver's side has a long scratch from front to end. I want to
> repaint.it but never worked on fiberglass. I could probably do some
> touch-up but I wander what would happen if I repaint the whole side.
> Should it be painted with a brush or a spray. Do I need to do something
> else than sanding before painting ?
>
Get a book from the library on autobody work if you want to do it right, or
get a spray can at Canada tire when you pick up the spark plugs, socket and
gap-tool and do it half-assed.
> Heads
> 1-Can't figure out what is the purpose of having heads in an engine ?
> This one is facultative/optional....haha
>
They keep the pistons from falling out, and in water-cooled Vanagons, they
mark your parking-spot and keep VW shops in business.
> Thank you so much once again...I find this list so usefull. What would
> we do without it ?
>
Not have to answer silly questions...
While you are at the library looking for a book on automotive body-work, you
might look at some elementary books on auto repair as well. A 1991 Westy is
not the best vehicle for a beginner, but you can work with it -- you have
some advanced stuff like electronic ignition and electronic fuel injection
that are not for the first-time owner to fiddle with. You might also think
about buying the "Bentley" shop manual. It is good, and might be available
in French, even. It assumes you already know a lot about cars in general,
though.
Malcolm
