Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 13:57:07 -0700
Reply-To: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@MAILEXCITE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@MAILEXCITE.COM>
Organization: MailExcite (http://www.mailexcite.com:80)
Subject: More Power to the Wasserboxer
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Ways to increase power to a Wasserboxer engine:
External Changes:
Exhaust System:
I have looked at several HP exhaust systems. I think that the stock design is the
best I have seen, so far(I will have a custom exhaust made when I rebuild my engine).
The main problem is that the HP exhausts DO NOT allow for the engine movement and
will eventually crack, their pipes are thin, and the 4 to 1 collector is too short.
The stock headers are bolted on solid to the engine and the muffler is bolted solid
to the body. Therefore they both DO NOT Move, BUT the engine does move, thus a problem.
The stock has a collector pipe that bolts to the manifold and the CAT that allows
for the engine movement with the use of the metal doughnut seals and spring washers
on both ends. (This could be the reason for some of the exhaust systems that are
developing cracking- the metal doughnut is replaced with a flat gasket and the flexibility
is lost resulting in cracks). If you have flat gaskets, replace them with VW metal
seals about $7 each, 2 are needed.
1) Change muffler to DynoMax SuperTurbo #17783, have a muffler shop weld up a flange
and a tailpipe. 18” case length to cut down on noise NOT performance.
2) Change to a higher flow LEGAL CAT with a 2” ID
3) Add 1.25 ratio rockers. Suggestion: CB Performance 1.25 Rhinos with Rhino swivel
feet, solid rocker arms and spacers.
(1.4 does not work well with the steep intake ramp on the stock cam, eventually
can cause valve damage, according to Webcam tech.)
4) Install Bosch triple electrode plugs. Should burn fuel mix more thoroughly.
5) Install K&N “drop in” air filter. No need to radically modify Stock airbox works
good and keeps the water out.
6) Redline transmission oil
7) Synthetic engine oil
Basic Internal engine changes (during a rebuild):
1) BALANCE ALL ROTATING PARTS as a unit, pistons, rods end for end.
2) Modify heads to increase flow. Not too much thought, can be done when doing a
head gasket job.
3) Have rods and crank strengthened to prevent breaks (heard this is a common area
that is weak area, could be worth it to keep from destroying a newly rebuilt engine)
4) Change to stronger rod bolts and nuts.
My thoughts so far.
VWVanman
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