Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 09:23:35 -0700
Reply-To: Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Re: the next wave:westy to syncro
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
David Bayer wrote:
>
> >| headliner first! Other than the top, the westy stuff can be swapped in
> >| about two days by 2 people who are handy with tools . To do the top is
> >| another 2-4 days depending on wether you try to use the factory bed. I
> >| would not use one again because it requires cutting a much larger hole
> >| and adding re-inforcing cross tubes to the upper body to support the
> >| bed.
>
> Is the location of these bars pretty much obvious as one disables
> the donor vehicle? I have been planning to swap the tops and sink/fridge
> units for a while now and would appreciate any help on the top bed you can
> give.
>
> dave
Yes it is some what obvious. The roof sheet metal has raised stiffening
panels (on the standard roof).One of these is just to the rear of the
sliding door opening. Right below this raised rib is a cross brace from
one side of the van to the other. It has an arch contour that matches
the curve of the roof. This reinforcing arch must be cut out in order
for the flat factory bed to fit. On the westy this cross brace is FLAT
and also is used to support the bed. You must cut out the curved one and
fit a flat structurally sound replacement.I used 2 pieces of 1" by 1"
steel tubing bolted across side by side.
The most important thing to know is that the bed must be fitted as low
to the roof as possible or the pop-top will not be able to close fully.
This is why the top bed has such thin mattress pads to begin with.
I find the pop-top to be a great addition to my van even without the
factory top bed. From the out side it looks completely original. Having
standing room inside is great and the area above is a handy spot to keep
stuff when we are camped. I also made a single bed platform that goes
across the opening when one of my nephews comes with us.
I can go into some detail on how to go about installing the top, but
the bed is a pain. In any case, I would say it is best to fit the top
first with a smaller hole in the roof. This way you do not need to cut
out any structual support, only some roof sheet metal.Start by screwing
down the aluminum rails that hold the canvas to the roof. Then mark
where the pop-top support legs would bolt on and the latch plate. this
way you can be sure not to cut the hole to large. Then mark the sheet
metal for cutting. Remember that it is easier(ha ha) to cut more later
than to add some back.I then marked a smaller area on the headliner
fabric and cut it out first (leave some excess fabbric so you can fold
it up to make it look good).Then cut the roof hole. Then mount the front
rack. Then install the top.It is much heavier and awkward than you think
and takes 3 or 4 men on foot stools to place it without damaging
anything(I'm not exagerating). When you have the top and canvas
installed and working correctly, you can think about wether you simply
must have the top double bed.(there are many more small steps than I
have listed, but the most important thing is to think carefully before
doing anything).
To put the top bed in you must cut off almost all of the roof sheet
metal from behind the front seats back(I chose to leave the headliner
material to simlify the finish work). Leave enough on the sides to have
something to attach the pop-top canvas and supports.Then you need to cut
off the arched support, leaving enough at each end to attach a flat
support. I did not use the back piece of wood, preferring to cut my own
from oak 3/4" plywood to use as the fixed part of the bed. Again it is
critical to get the platform as low as possible or the hinged part of
the bed will catch on the pop-top when you open and close the bed. Also
the top will not close all the way. This is why I mount the top fisrt,
so I can make sure it is opening and closing correctly before the bed is
installed.
On the project where I did use the factory bed, I found it essential
to have both vans at the same place so I could take many measurements
and check things as I went.
There are some camper things that I was unable or unwilling to move
over to the "new" camper. I don't have time right now to say more but if
you want more info, please reply and I will elaborate.
| 
