Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 17:07:42 EDT
Reply-To: Benjita@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Cory Zumbrennen <Benjita@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Newbie has Westie & Vanagon Questions.
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
In a message dated 98-05-29 15:55:29 EDT, arbosch@RA.ROCKWELL.COM writes:
<<
So where do I begin? Do I want a basket case or a restored dream? Or
something in between? Are there production years to avoid? What do I look
for that would make one a "good buy", one that I should wrap my arms around
like a long lost love? Conversely, what going to make me turn on my heels
and run away just as fast as my size 9 feet will take me.
Thank you. Your help is truly appreciated!
Alan Bosch
>>
Alan,
I would begin by looking soley for an '86 or newer Vanagon. There were a
number of improvements in the '86 model year, the best of which is the larger
2.1L engine. Smaller improvements include improved braking, Digifant (is this
an improvement??), re-routed coolant hoses, Syncro available, PW, PL, PM,
square headlights, skylight in the Westfalias......
Decide which kind you want, 7 passenger, Carat (rear facing seats & table),
Multivan (rearfacing seats, table, and rear cabinets, pop-top), Syncro (AWD),
Westfalia (sink stove pop-top).
IMHO, all Vanagon's require a lot of attention, no matter whether it's a 7
passenger or a Syncro Westfalia. So buy something that excites you and makes
the attention you have to pay it worthwhile.
Number one problem to look for are leaking head gaskets. Most every Vanagon
needs headgaskets between 70K and 100K, perhaps Steve Schwenk can provide us
with the exact average miles at which the heads burst. Considering this, I
prefer to buy vans that are leaking versus vans that havn't had the heads
replaced or had them replaced 50K miles ago. People sell Vanagon's with leaky
heads cheap. Then you through on new heads, or a new engine, and you have
eliminated the number one chronic health problem that Vanagon's face. Or buy
one with recent heads/engine.
Everything else is standard fare. Check the cooling system, radiator fan
operation, compression, look for leaks of any sort, check for a smooth
shifting tranny, make sure the FI functions correctly first thing in the
morning and after about an hour on the highway.
On Syncro's check the operation of the front viscous coupling and inspect all
eight CV joints. Also look to buy a syncro that has a bad U-Joint on the
driveshaft, it will vibrate at speed. Common knowledge says that the
driveshaft will need replacing (around $800). People sell Syncros with
vibrating driveshafts cheap. Then just replace the U-Joint for about $150 per
end. Procedures for checking these things are in the archives.
A couple of side notes that may be important to you. In '88 VW lowered the
Vanagon by something like an inch and a half(not applicable to syncros). I
like to get off road so I would opt to keep the ground clearance. And in '87
VW equiped the vanagons with longer adjustable armrests. If I were buying a
Vanagon again, it would be an '87 Westfalia or the newest / best Syncro
Westfalia that I could afford. HTH
Cory
'86 Syncro Westfalia (with short little armrests)
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