Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 02:19:59 -0700
Reply-To: "Thomas D. Hanlon" <hanran.inc@INTERNETMCI.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: "Thomas D. Hanlon" <hanran.inc@INTERNETMCI.COM>
Organization: The Hanran Enterprises, Inc.
Subject: Re: Rear Drum removal/rear shoes replaced?
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Mark,
Can you, and anyone else who has a Haynes manual, review the procedure
on 10.7, "Rear brake shoes and drum," and clarify the description of the
procedure? From my reading, it appears not to be necessary to remove
the 46 mm nut. I've obtained the parts to replace the rear brake shoes,
et al, and I'm confused.
Beginning at paragraph 2, ""Undo the two small bolts securing the
brake drum to the rear wheel hub and withdraw the drum. Tap the
circumference of the drum with a hide or plastic mallet it is tight. If
the break drum cannot be removed due to it binding on the break shoes,
slacken off the break shoe adjuster as follows."
The remainder of the section of 30 paragraphs and photos deals with the
nitty-gritty of springs, shoes and drums. In all of the photos, the
castellated nut and the cotter pin remain on the axle.
Help!
Tom Hanlon
Palm Springs, CA
84 Westfalia
Mark McCulley wrote:
> At 12:51 AM 6/9/98 EDT, Tim Gardner wrote:
> >Today I checked out my Bentley manuel and noticed that sussposidly to
> do the
> >rear shoes you need to use a wheel puller? I then went outside with
> my father
> >and checked out the brakes and how to get at them. Im not sure if
> this is
> >syncro spectfic but there is a pin that holds a large nut and the
> hub. Now
> >this must be removed inorder to replace the rear shoes? Do I need
> the wheel
> >puller or can I just bend the pin, take it out and unscrew the nut
> that holds
> >the hub on? Please help me out with how to do this. Thank you for
> any
> >information.
> >
> Yes, you do have to remove the hub to replace the rear shoes. Before
> jacking
> the car up, remove the cotter pin and loosen the axel nut. You will
> need the
> proper socket (46mm I think) and a big breaker bar to get this sucker
> loose--it's torque spec is 369 ft lbs. Break both axel nuts loose
> while all
> the wheels are on the ground. Then follow the procedure detailed in
> the
> Bentley manual. You might want to consider having the drums turned and
>
> rebuilding wheel cylinders if that hasn't been done for a while.
>
> After putting things back together, get the axel nuts good and tight
> before
> lowering the van and then be sure torque them to spec with the rear
> wheels
> back on the ground.
>
> MM
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