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Date:         Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:31:03 -0700
Reply-To:     "Thomas D. Hanlon" <hanran.inc@INTERNETMCI.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Thomas D. Hanlon" <hanran.inc@INTERNETMCI.COM>
Organization: The Hanran Enterprises, Inc.
Subject:      Re: Rear Drum removal/rear shoes replaced?
Comments: To: "Justin B. Jensen" <jjensen@sprintmail.com>,
          Vanagon <vanagon@vanagon.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Justin,

Thanks for the clarification. There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on the List on the subject, and the differences are generating some impolite heat. Bentley appears to be incorrect. Haynes gives lucid, and apparently valid, instruction for the mechanically-challenged reader, which I as one of those, appreciate. I think I'll backup the Vanagon a few times according to marcus's suggestion. Then, I can back off the topic, too. Thanks to all who participated politely.

Regards,

Tom Hanlon Palm Springs, Ca 84 Westfalia

Justin B. Jensen wrote:

> Tom, > You can replace the shoes without removing the hub. Simply remove the > drum > off of the hub - you will need to release the parking brake to allow > the > drum to come off and you may need to heat, use penetrating oil and/or > impact > to get the drum off as they tend to seize to the hub. > > Good luck, > Justin Jensen > SLC Utah > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas D. Hanlon <hanran.inc@INTERNETMCI.COM> > To: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM <Vanagon@VANAGON.COM> > Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 3:22 AM > Subject: Re: Rear Drum removal/rear shoes replaced? > > >Mark, > > > >Can you, and anyone else who has a Haynes manual, review the > procedure > >on 10.7, "Rear brake shoes and drum," and clarify the description of > the > >procedure? From my reading, it appears not to be necessary to remove > > >the 46 mm nut. I've obtained the parts to replace the rear brake > shoes, > >et al, and I'm confused. > > > >Beginning at paragraph 2, ""Undo the two small bolts securing the > >brake drum to the rear wheel hub and withdraw the drum. Tap the > >circumference of the drum with a hide or plastic mallet it is tight. > If > >the break drum cannot be removed due to it binding on the break > shoes, > >slacken off the break shoe adjuster as follows." > > > >The remainder of the section of 30 paragraphs and photos deals with > the > >nitty-gritty of springs, shoes and drums. In all of the photos, the > >castellated nut and the cotter pin remain on the axle. > > > >Help! > > > >Tom Hanlon > >Palm Springs, CA > >84 Westfalia > > > >Mark McCulley wrote: > > > >> At 12:51 AM 6/9/98 EDT, Tim Gardner wrote: > >> >Today I checked out my Bentley manuel and noticed that sussposidly > to > >> do the > >> >rear shoes you need to use a wheel puller? I then went outside > with > >> my father > >> >and checked out the brakes and how to get at them. Im not sure if > > >> this is > >> >syncro spectfic but there is a pin that holds a large nut and the > >> hub. Now > >> >this must be removed inorder to replace the rear shoes? Do I need > > >> the wheel > >> >puller or can I just bend the pin, take it out and unscrew the nut > > >> that holds > >> >the hub on? Please help me out with how to do this. Thank you > for > >> any > >> >information. > >> > > >> Yes, you do have to remove the hub to replace the rear shoes. > Before > >> jacking > >> the car up, remove the cotter pin and loosen the axel nut. You will > > >> need the > >> proper socket (46mm I think) and a big breaker bar to get this > sucker > >> loose--it's torque spec is 369 ft lbs. Break both axel nuts loose > >> while all > >> the wheels are on the ground. Then follow the procedure detailed in > > >> the > >> Bentley manual. You might want to consider having the drums turned > and > >> > >> rebuilding wheel cylinders if that hasn't been done for a while. > >> > >> After putting things back together, get the axel nuts good and > tight > >> before > >> lowering the van and then be sure torque them to spec with the rear > > >> wheels > >> back on the ground. > >> > >> MM > >


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