Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:06:30 +0200
Reply-To: "Dr. Rainer Woitok" <woitok@RRZE.UNI-ERLANGEN.DE>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: "Dr. Rainer Woitok" <woitok@RRZE.UNI-ERLANGEN.DE>
Organization: RRZE (Regionales Rechenzentrum Erlangen)
Subject: Re: Power window problem
In-Reply-To: Msg <v03007800b1bb3e4b60f3@[208.255.148.173]> of 1998- 6-27
19:28:33 -0500 from jkoloen@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi John, hi all the others :-)
On Sat, 1998-06-27 19:28:33 -0500, John Koloen wrote:
> My passenger side power window suddenly stopped working. I get a clicking
> sound from the motor when I press either the passenger or driver side
> switch. Has anyone else had this problem?
At least I had a similar problem (the power window didn't work, but the
motor made a clicking noise. In my case it was the driver side,
though). I managed to solve it. I can't give you the detailed
instructions of how to remove motor and mechanics out of the passenger
door, for that, see Bentley or some similar publication. However, here
is the critical point: you're instructed to roll down the window for
about one centimeter or so in order to
1. get two screws in alignment with two corresponding wholes in the
door, and
2. put the whole mechanics into a state where it's removable.
In case you fail to accomplish this (and you _do_ fail to accomplish
this, because your motor is striking) you're instructed to cut the steel
cable (which would ruin the whole assembly).
Now, #1 is no problem at all, you can rather easily undo the screws
without aligning them with those holes. #2 indeed is some sort of a
challenge. But gently trying to and fro, despite of the instruction
manual, I finally managed to remove the whole assembly without any
damage. The top end, where the glass is attached has to be moved
backwards, the motor unit has to be moved forward and out of the door
... I never clearly found out what I did wrong (according to the manual,
that is :-), but after several tries the bastard suddenly was savely
out.
Maybe, it would suffice to only get the motor and the gearbox attached
to it out of the door a bit, and leave the rest more or less in place
... but somehow it's a more easy job when the whole assembly lies neatly
on the work bench.
Anyway: it's save to open the gearbox (at least if your's is the same as
mine, straight forward job, five, six or seven screws, no parts will
jump at you like a jack-in-the-box), but at least in my case the problem
wasn't in the gearbox. I removed the four screws attaching the motor to
the gearbox and then removed the motor. The motor axle sits rather
tightly in an elastic plastic cylinder which transfers the torque of the
motor axle to the spindle in the gearbox, but you can cautiously
persuade the motor axle to let go ... :-). It then turned out that in
my motor the axle simply had locked. I applied MoS2 spray to the axle
and its bearing, and after a while of cauiously twisting and turning the
axle, the motor gave in and started to behave normally. I then applied
12V to it, and lo and behold! it worked again. It does still.
And of course: before putting everything back into place I generously
rolled down the window for about one centimeter to align the screws with
the wholes and thus to prevent me from having to cut theese steel cables
... :-)
Hope this helps.
Sincerely
Rainer
PS: I'm new to this list, living in Germany, and driving a 89 16" Syncro
with a 2.1l gasoline engine with cat. Are there any other Germans on
this list?
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| Rainer M Woitok | Phone: (+49-9131) 85-7811, -7031 |
| Regionales Rechenzentrum | |
| Friedrich-Alexander-Universitaet | Fax : (+49-9131) 30 29 41 |
| Martens-Strasse 1 | Telex: d 629 755 tf erl |
| D-91058 Erlangen | |
| Germany | Mail: Woitok@RRZE.Uni-Erlangen.DE |
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