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Date:         Sun, 26 Jul 1998 08:36:48 -0700
Reply-To:     Steven Johnson <sjohnson@CALWEB.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Steven Johnson <sjohnson@CALWEB.COM>
Subject:      Re: Carver P4 - Thoughts on installation
Comments: To: Ssittservl@AOL.COM
Comments: cc: vanagon@vanagon.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:21 PM 7/23/98 EDT, you wrote: >I guess I'm convinced that under the rear seat, on the passenger side, >is best. I think about the only other place that would work is the

> >For some reason I'm reluctant to cut visible holes in the under-the-seat >box, so I'm considering running no cold air return duct, and relying

Steven,

To me, there is only one logical place to put the heater, and that is under the bench seat on the passenger side, just behind the kick panel. Why? Accessability and ease of installment. If you need to access the heater for any reason (tightening propane pipe connection, fixing the hoses) you want easy access. The installation in this location is a snap. You should at least install the heater and hoses and if you don't want to do the tap in connections you can have the RV place do those. But they are really simple to do. Go to the library and read up on how to do copper pipe connections and you'll be set. You can use either compression or flared connections. You test the connections with a soap and water solution. If they aren't sealed, you either tighten or redo the fitting.

Routing the copper pipe is easy. You'll need to drill a 2 holes out the side of the bench seat and though the hidden utility box cabinet. Routing the pipe around the fridge requires removing the fridge. Removing the fridge is as easy as reading the Bently manual and following the step-by-step instructions. Remember to turn off the main propane valve. While you have the fridge out, route the power supply wiring up through the water tank cabinet by shoving it up the right side of the bench seat area. You can can catch the other end of the wire through the rear top cabinet through the access panel. Some clever dexterity will be in order here. ;) This is actually how I did my copper pipe too (what a bear!). I had my propex before the first big purchase. Tom's way is far better! Anyway, fish the wiring around through the back of the top cabinets and feed it out where the the water lines are routed to the faucet. Get it passed the rear of the fridge and you can get it to the battery however you want. Route extra wires for future utility before you put the fridge back in.

I *strongly* suggest that you drill both intake and outlet holes through the floor. I know this is probably the most painful part of the exer- cise, but it must be done to get a good safe installation. You only need one opening for the actually heated air in the kick panel. The intake for the heating air is not necessary. Another thing I wish I new before I put mine in... :(

You can do this job, but be sure to measure several times before you drill that first hole for the burner vent holes. Cause once they're done, there done.....

Have fun!

Steven Sacramento, CA sjohnson@calweb.com


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