Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 23:45:38 -0500
Reply-To: Carl Hansen <carl_hansen@IEEE.ORG>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Carl Hansen <carl_hansen@IEEE.ORG>
Subject: Camper Indicator Panel LED's !!!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi, I have to appologize for my lame post on this issue. It was late, I'd
been up all night the night before, etc., etc....... So I determined to
right the poor information I'd given you all, but then later I read more
posts and lo and behold, there was the answere. The information below is
correct.
1. The reverse voltge of a standard silicon based diode is about 2 volts,
this is when voltage polarity is applied in the correct direction so as to
light it. See the original post below, Darrell measured 2.0 volts. Good
for you Darrell, thanks. Note that if you check 97.29 in Bently, they use
a 470 ohm resistor in line with the LED, for an operating current of 21.3
ma. That's about right.
2. The forward voltage is about 0.7 volts, and that's for any silicon
diode. If you apply voltage polarity in the wrong direction, the LED won't
light, and you'll blow it out. LED's are polarity sensitive. Not like
incandenscents.
3. You can get red, green and yellow LED's from VW. (Also Blue, but I
didn't inquire.) They sell them as replacements for the instrument panels.
They cost, $3.55 for red, $3.20 for green, and $6.25 for yellow. No to
bother with the part numbers. Source, B'ville VW, Eric in parts, Sat.
noontime.
4. The Radio Shack parts you want are 99 cents apiece. See the part
numbers in the original post below. ** SEE ORIGINAL POST BELOW.
5. VW says you can repair and replace LED's in the dash panels, see group
90 in your Vanagon Bently. Group page 97.29 - Wiring, Camper, shows the
process to check the camper indicator panel. Both Eric at B'ville parts,
and the Bently check process in 97.29, say to replace the whole panel. HOG
WASH.
6. You will have to remove, then solder in new LED's, but there is no
reason why you shouldn't be able to replace the LED's.
7. and last but not least, here's the thing to think about - CAREFULLY!
In all my 25 years as an electrical engineer, not necessarily working
directly with LED's mind you, I have NEVER known an LED to fail, except
when not biased or powered correctly. So follow 97.29 to check your panel
FIRST. Do it carefully, then double check it again. If indeed you have a
faulty LED, then carry on.
Ch
'89 SyncroBeast Vanagon
'87 16V GTI
'87 16V GTI w/ hale damage
'89 16V GTI w/ toasted motor
'86 Scirocco (8 valve w/ auto)
'80 850 Yamaha Special
Prior Lake, MinneSnowta
well, ok, it's summer
Land of Sky Blue Waters
*** Original post follow up *** <<<<< AND UPDATES TO IT IN CAP'S
Darrell blows this issue out fast! Decisive, fast...wow.
Here are the part numbers he offers for refrigerator water level LEDs.
>From: "Darrell Boehler" <midwesty@taos.midwest.net>
>To: "Derek Drew" <drew@interport.net>
>Subject: LEDs above reefer
>Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 08:20:45 -0500
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3
>
>-------------------------
>Hi Derek,
> All the LEDs that I checked are 2 volt, T1 3/4 5mm diameter. . I
>checked them all but the snowflake. So Radio shack part numbers follow.
>
>red 276-041a <<<<<< THIS STUFF IS GOOD ****************
>yellow 276-021a ** I REMEMBER SEING BLUE ALSO
>green 276-022a ** PARTS WERE .99 CENTS EACH.
>
>Good luck and have a good weekend.
>
>
>Darrell
>
_____________________________________________________
Derek Drew New York, NY & Washington DC
ConsumerSearch
drew@interport.net
212-580-6486, 202-966-7907 (W)
212-580-4459; 202-966-0938 (H)
------------------------------
