Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 1998 08:11:27 -0500
Reply-To:     Steven Manning <smanning@EXECPC.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Steven Manning <smanning@EXECPC.COM>
Organization: Steve's Place
Subject:      Re: seam rust
Comments: To: JordanVw@AOL.COM
Comments: cc: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

You must remember that the seam rust starts from the inside from the caulk/sealant
between seams drying out and cracking. This is especially true for the lower seam
on the drivers side. The sealant cracks, allows water in, then sits in the channel
inside at the seam. You need to recaulk where you see cracking, probably right
below the window where the body curves at a 45 degree angle.

If you just dremel the rust, it will restart shortly after a rain or a wash of the
van. As far as the seams go at the back of the van near the bumper ends, you need
to seal from inside the engine compartment. This rust starts from the water
leaking in from the rear vents into the engine compartment.. You need to seal the
joint where the two body pieces are tack welded. Using Extend is good with a
weather-proofing sealant over it, such as a silicone product.

I have done this twice on two different vehicles with no reoccurrence.

-steve's .02$ worth.

JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-27 11:14:04 EDT, tonyd@CANDESA.COM writes:
>
> << Does anyone have a solution for seam rust and spot rust? My poor '87 is
>  suffering from some slight rust in spots that I'd like to catch before
>  it's out of control. Also, a while back someone posted that they had
>  rear wiper motors for sale. Could you re-post.(i need working ones
>  please :)) Thanks in advance for your help guys/gals.
>   >>
>
> just did some of that today.
> use a dremel grinder for small spots - grind till shiny, sand to feather edges
> smooth, then use "extend" rust treatment, then prime, then paint with
> topcoat..
>
> easy..
>
> chris