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Date:         Fri, 18 Sep 1998 11:40:01 -0500
Reply-To:     ray.wei@US.PWCGLOBAL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Yi-Ruey Wei <ray.wei@US.PWCGLOBAL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Power window regulator fix ('91 Carat)
Comments: To: Bill Urban <KC-Sadie-VW@WEBTV.NET>
Comments: cc: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Bill, I have replaced 3 power window regulators (2 under warranty) and repaired twice after that. Like I posted before, these 2 "PLASTIC" rivets holding the upper/lower guides of the cable WILL break sooner (so soon that you have not used it yet) or later. I repaired it via an easier way. I used an aluminum rivet and didn't make it too tight. It worked for me for 5 years now. One important advise, if your power windows suddenly stopped moving (especially in the cold weather), DON'T KEEP PUSHING THE PW SWITCH. If you do, chances are the cable will wrap around the spool of the regular if the plastic rivet and guide broke off and the whole regular will become useless ($160). I ruined one and saved the next 2 (left and right) by not doing that. Regards, Yi-Ruey Wei 87 Vanagon GL Syncro w/78K miles 85 Jetta GLI w/165K miles Dallas, Texas

Bill Urban <KC-Sadie-VW@WEBTV.NET> on 09/17/98 07:26:23 PM

Please respond to Bill Urban <KC-Sadie-VW@WEBTV.NET> To: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM cc: Subject: Power window regulator fix ('91 Carat)

When I tried to install my new $160.00 power window regulator in the driver's door of my van it got caught on something inside the door. In the process of trying to free it I broke it. You can imagine my frustration. Looking at the broken part it was obvious that it was broke in exactly the same place as the regulator I had oriiginally removed. At the bottom of the metal track that the window travels on, the cable goes thru a (1)plastic corner piece that attaches to the track by a small plastic fastening device and it's own "clip" that hooks thru the track. The fastening device is two pieces:(2) a small corner piece with a whole in it, and(3) a plastic pin that does the actual work of holding the assembly to the track. This pin was broke on both of my regulators. Must be a common problem. Buying another reg. was not an option, so I fixed the problem in this design weakness. Instead of the flimsy <1/8th" plastic pin I used a small metric machine screw,3 or 4 washers, a nut, and blue LOCTITE thread locker.

First pull the (1) corner piece back in place so you can hook it to the track and clamp it there with a small c-clamp. This is tricky because of the spring tension. Then position (2) in place and insert the screw where the (3)pin had been, head against the plastic. I taped this temporarily. Then flip the assembly over and use a needle nose pliers to insert your washers into the metal recess around the screw you installed, use enough to get the spot where your new nut is going to be accessable to an open end wrench. When your ready to install the nut apply some LOCTITE to the nut and screw, it won't take much. Tighten the screw snug while holding the nut. Don't overtighten and crack the plastic. When finished remove the c-clamp and the regulator is fixed and much stronger than a new one.

When reinstalling the regulator it is possible to do it without twisting the whole assembly 180 degrees as the Bentley Manual shows if you use caution and go slow.

Hopefull this fix will save someone some money.

LATER!

Bill Urban Kansas '91 Carat, '79 Super conv, '73 Super, "75 IHC Scout

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