Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 11:40:01 -0500
Reply-To: ray.wei@US.PWCGLOBAL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Yi-Ruey Wei <ray.wei@US.PWCGLOBAL.COM>
Subject: Re: Power window regulator fix ('91 Carat)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Bill,
I have replaced 3 power window regulators (2 under warranty) and repaired
twice after that. Like I posted before, these 2 "PLASTIC" rivets holding
the upper/lower guides of the cable WILL break sooner (so soon that you
have not used it yet) or later. I repaired it via an easier way. I used
an aluminum rivet and didn't make it too tight. It worked for me for 5
years now.
One important advise, if your power windows suddenly stopped moving
(especially in the cold weather), DON'T KEEP PUSHING THE PW SWITCH. If you
do, chances are the cable will wrap around the spool of the regular if the
plastic rivet and guide broke off and the whole regular will become useless
($160). I ruined one and saved the next 2 (left and right) by not doing
that.
Regards,
Yi-Ruey Wei
87 Vanagon GL Syncro w/78K miles
85 Jetta GLI w/165K miles
Dallas, Texas
Bill Urban <KC-Sadie-VW@WEBTV.NET> on 09/17/98 07:26:23 PM
Please respond to Bill Urban <KC-Sadie-VW@WEBTV.NET>
To: Vanagon@VANAGON.COM
cc:
Subject: Power window regulator fix ('91 Carat)
When I tried to install my new $160.00 power window regulator in the
driver's door of my van it got caught on something inside the door. In
the process of trying to free it I broke it. You can imagine my
frustration. Looking at the broken part it was obvious that it was
broke in exactly the same place as the regulator I had oriiginally
removed. At the bottom of the metal track that the window travels on,
the cable goes thru a (1)plastic corner piece that attaches to the track
by a small plastic fastening device and it's own "clip" that hooks thru
the track. The fastening device is two pieces:(2) a small corner piece
with a whole in it, and(3) a plastic pin that does the actual work of
holding the assembly to the track. This pin was broke on both of my
regulators. Must be a common problem. Buying another reg. was not an
option, so I fixed the problem in this design weakness. Instead of the
flimsy <1/8th" plastic pin I used a small metric machine screw,3 or 4
washers, a nut, and blue LOCTITE thread locker.
First pull the (1) corner piece back in place so you can hook it to the
track and clamp it there with a small c-clamp. This is tricky because of
the spring tension. Then position (2) in place and insert the screw
where the (3)pin had been, head against the plastic. I taped this
temporarily. Then flip the assembly over and use a needle nose pliers
to insert your washers into the metal recess around the screw you
installed, use enough to get the spot where your new nut is going to be
accessable to an open end wrench. When your ready to install the nut
apply some LOCTITE to the nut and screw, it won't take much. Tighten the
screw snug while holding the nut. Don't overtighten and crack the
plastic. When finished remove the c-clamp and the regulator is fixed and
much stronger than a new one.
When reinstalling the regulator it is possible to do it without twisting
the whole assembly 180 degrees as the Bentley Manual shows if you use
caution and go slow.
Hopefull this fix will save someone some money.
LATER!
Bill Urban
Kansas
'91 Carat, '79 Super conv, '73 Super, "75 IHC Scout
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