Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 23:44:07 -0400
Reply-To: John Anderson <janderson@IOLINC.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: John Anderson <janderson@IOLINC.NET>
Subject: Injector Line Replacement
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I'm cross posting this cause the discussion is on vanagon but everyone needs
to take heed.
>Each fuel injector also has a short rubber lead off the ring line - but it
>looks like those hoses are crimped right into the injector. Does anyone
>know if these can be replaced without replacing the injectors?
GEEZ OH, how many times do I have to say this. Procedure.
1. remove injectors.
2. observe that the little 2" section of hose is attached with a crimp
ferrule up adjacent to the injector body, it is about 1/8" wide and rolled
under beside the injector body like a cap over the hose with a hole in it to
pass the hose and barb on injector.
3. cut through said ferrule with either:
a: hacksaw
b: dremel moto tool and cut off disc.
(now you wont be able to cut all the way through because of the way the
ferrule caps in, but don't sweat it, don't worry if you cut into the hose,
you are replacing it, you merely need to cut through most of the flat
section of the ferrule at about a 45 degree angle to the hose.
4. Take a pair of needle nose pliers or side cutters, grap the tip of the
ferrule where you have cut it through and peel it back on itself, you may be
able to rip it entirely in two but that is not necessary. Peel both sides
back if you can.
5. Slice the hose up the barb towards the ferrule as far as possible with an
X-acto or single sided razor blade. (Don't kill yourself)
6. Work the hose off
7. The ferrule will now fall off even if you didn't cut it all the way
through.
8. Measure EXACTLY the same length of quality German FI rated hose and slip
over the barb. The length is important, too short things don't bend right,
too long and it is a nightmare to get the injectors to clamp into the
manifold correctly. The barb is a real tight fit, moistening it with a
little gas before slipping the hose over is good, but just a barely
perceptible amount then let them sit to flash off 15 minutes before
tightening the clamps till the point where you just can't rotate the hose
any more. (Aside here, bet you could spin the old dried out hoses freely.
9. Clamp with your favorite hose clamp, positioning the worm opposite the
electronic connector so you can get it up near the injector, snug it down,
check it in a month.
10. Install new small end injector seals.
A good option is to shoot something into the injector barbed end where you
will see a little (replaceable actually if you can find them) screen filter
to get the crud out before the new hose goes on. Unfortunately what to
shoot is a hard call now days. Brake cleaner used to be good when it was
primarily 1,1,1 trichloro but the new environmental shit can be mostly water
and is not a good thing to shoot into you ready to rust solid injector.
Maybe a little WD-40, certainly wont hurt and if you shoot from a distance
at an angle most of the crud will wash back out at you instead of going in
(hey a WD-40 can ain't applying force like 30psi of gas.) If you wan't to
be truly terrified, take the X-acto and slice one of the old hoses
lengthwise and turn it inside out to look at it, the INSIDE cracks are
really scary.
Drive happily and safer.
John
janderson@iolinc.net
| 
