Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 11:19:40 -0700
Reply-To: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@MAILEXCITE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <Vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@MAILEXCITE.COM>
Organization: MailExcite (http://www.mailexcite.com:80)
Subject: Engine Rebuild
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To those that want to have more power, but do not want to do a engine swap, but are in need of a rebuild soon...
I am in the process of rebuilding my 88 2.1L Wasserboxer.
I had planned to only do a head gasket repair, but with the death of my transaxle I have decided to do a full engine rebuild with some improvements.
Here are the improvements:
1) Full engine balance- all rotating parts as a unit.
2) Match port the intake runners to the intake opening.(The runners ID was about 2mm smaller than the intake opening ID- to improve flow)
3) Clean up the welding on the exhaust system flanges at the head (My new exhaust had welds that restricted flow).
4) Matched port the exhaust elbow and the twin pipe inlets. (My ports were off center about 5mm off on one side of port)
5) CB Performance solid rocker arms.
6) CB performance 9mm Rhino rocker swivel feet. (Stock are 10mm but not swiveled)
(The feet are the same as 911’s and keep the valve stem guide wear down when increasing the lift)
7) CB Performance 1.25 Ratio rockers.
8) CB Performance cut to fit HP push rods- (to avoid having to shim the rockers
*The 1.25 rockers are the same as FGA is selling. They cost under @$150 from CB Performance.
I am using cut to fit push rods to eliminate the need for spacers under the rockers and maintain correct geometry.
9) CB Performance Copper 1.5" exhaust gaskets
10) Chip upgrade
11) Bosch triple electrode plugs
12) Mild porting on Cylinder heads- to clean up rough casting, match all ports to same size
13). K&N Air Filter
14) Off set grind crank 2mm
15) LIFETIME warranty Super Turbo muffler ($58)
16) Rebuild heads with combustion chamber re-shaping to improve flow.
17) Sanded smooth throttle body casting roughness
18) Have the sealing surface of the head anodized to keep from pitting out
(I have to do more research to see if it is possible and if it will really work)
All of the parts used in the rebuild will be
1. German (except where none exist)
2. Cleaned 4 times, they will be polished to remove all traces of any foreign matter.
*I have done all the porting/sanding/grinding with my B&D Wizard (I wish I had one on my previous engine rebuilds)
A tool like this is handy.
I will be done in about 6 weeks, I’ll keep those interested with up dates
VWVanman
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