Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:58:12 -0500
Reply-To: Bob O'Shaughnessy <vanagon@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Bob O'Shaughnessy <vanagon@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
Subject: Re: 1.9l Oil pump R&R
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
David Beierl (dbeierl@IBM.NET) said on the date of 11/3/98 4:09 PM
>Can someone give me a notion of how much stuff has to come off in
>order to remove the oil pump on a digijet engine? Bentley has a
>lovely drawing which assumes that the engine is out and the crankshaft
>pulley removed... :(
>
>thanks,
>david
I just did this repair on my engine as I had put the thing together
wrong during the rebuild. It wasn't hard, just time consuming.
What you'll need to do is this:
Drain the oil.
Remove the rear parts of the exhaust.
Remove the heat shield that goes above it. You'll have to unscrew
the coolant expansion jug from its mounts and hang it with wire. You'll
also have to remove two engine mount bolts. Be sure to put them back in
after you get the shield out.
Remove the crankshaft pulley. This is a toughie, requiring lots of
torque and the right tools. Don't try to do it without the VW tool to
stop the crank pulley from turning. Even having a friend stand on the
brake doesn't work very well.
Support the engine (A padded floor jack underneath did the job for
me, watch for slow falling though. A jack stand might work better, or
support the engine form above with a 4x4 across the engine bay and some
wire. There's a nice lift hole on the back of the block.
Remove the cross-bar engine support, and the brackets attached to
the engine.
Now you've reached the oil pump. You need the following parts:
Four self-sealing nuts (just ask at your FLAPS, my guy knows the
part number by heart)
The inner (between oil pump and engine case) gasket, and the outer
(between the pump and the plate) gasket. These look similar, but are
different.
Remove all four of the old self-sealing bolts and throw them away,
you can't use them anymore. (On that note, if you really want to cover
your self, buy a few spares (they're cheap) because as soon as you put
one on the stud, you can't take it off)
Pull the plate off, clean it and inspect it. It should have some
scoring from the pump gears, but not enough to have made any indentation.
If you can feel a ridge, get the plate milled down and be ready to
replace the pump gears and pump housing.
Perform the feeler-gauge inspection in your Bentley manual to see
how the pump gears are wearing.
Pull the gears out and set them in a clean place.
Pull the pump housing. I was able to do this without a puller buy
gently tapping the housing out with a screwdriver . There are some
pieces of the flange to get a good purchase on. Be gentile, as the pump
housing is made out of soft metal.
Clean everything off (remember, any crud you put in there is gonna
go in your engine) and reassemble with the proper gaskets in the proper
places. I used a little elephant-snot type sealant (Curil K-2) for good
measure.
Put the self-sealing bolts on, and torque them to spec.
Before you reassemble, consider that you are in position to
replace/inspect the following:
Crankshaft seal
Water pump
Oil pressure sensors (also a good time to put a oil pressure gauge
sensor in)
Pushrod tubes
Belts.
Assemble in reverse order. Watch for the arrows on the big crossbar.
They point to the front.
Have fun
_________________________________________________________
Bob O'Shaughnessy, Columbus, OH
vanagon@columbus.rr.com
85GL with basic Westy interior
74 Bus (Dad's)
72 Wife, 94 Rabbit, 95 Cat, 96 cat, 98 Kid
