Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:58:52 EST
Reply-To: CarlMarin@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Carl Turner <CarlMarin@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re Stripped Oil Drain Plug
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On the drain plug topic I think Craig asked what Permatex was. I referred to
sealing my piggyback plug up with Permatex #2. Permatex #2 is a black goopy
automotive sealant from the old school before the advent of Silicone RTV
sealants. The #2 remains somewhat compliant when dry, #1 is the same but
hardens. Both of these are pretty similar to what is referred to in old shop
manuals as "aircraft gasket sealer" a version of which Permatex also sells, a
bit thinner in consistency as compared to the #2. I used this for the drain
plug as it seems to stick and hold up better than the RTVs when applied to
oily surfaces. Its also really hard to every clean off so I use it on stuff I
don't plan on messing with again. In the good old days before the Blue RTV I
used it to seal paper water pump gaskets and the like. The stuff never leaks
but its also really hard to take apart again. If the paper gasket didn't
separate, you'd never get the water pump off again!
The Permatex #1,#2 and aviation sealer are available at most auto parts stores
right next to the usual Blue RTV sealant.
A couple of guys mentioned using either the piggyback type plug or a lever
drain plug. On either of these options I think it important to make sure the
permanent part of the plug doesn't stick up into the sump more than a thread
or so as any taller and it will be keeping a significant amount of oil from
draining. Thats why on the plug I made I measured and cut the plug flush with
the inside of the sump. To eyeball the thickness of the case at the plug,
just take a screw or bolt who's head will fit up into the case. Hook the head
on the inside of the case, make a mark on the threads at the outside of the
case, withdraw and see how deep your plug gets to be. Simple!
For those going the Helicoil route in the future, be aware that the precision
with which you drill and tap the hole will have a large effect on how tight a
class tolerance you end up with. Doing the tapping by hand, one wants to try
and run the tap with even pressure straight in. If you pull from side to side,
wobbulate as it were, the thread will be much looser. Run the tap out often
to clean the chips as you are tapping and use a tapping fluid (or WD40) for a
clean cut. If you aspire to really masterful work, then you can try running
the tap just barely up to the point where the tap starts to taper on the tip.
This will leave 1/2 to 1 thread at the inside that is just a bit tight after
you stick the helicoil in. This gives you a nice snug cinch at the end of the
plug. Hard to achieve this trick every time. Technically speaking the drain
plug seals under the head of the plug but tight close tolerance threads
certainly help I think.
Biggest mistake made on these plugs I think is that when they drip people
immediately get out the big wrench to tighten them and thus start pulling the
threads out. If the plug is dripping after having been torqued to its max
allowable (18 fl-lbs! bet you didn't know that!) then it needs to have its
sealing surface polished out as I described in my earlier post or you need a
new aluminum gasket. Oh, and don't let Jiffy Lube change your oil! They
don't have the right filter anyway.
BTW, for future reference, does anyone know what aluminum alloy was used on
these Wasserboxer cases? Weldable?
Good luck and as always, use your Van-noggin when working on your Van-agon
Carl Turner,
84 and 85 Westies.
