Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 19:34:33 EST
Reply-To: ThingGuy@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Steve Lashley <ThingGuy@AOL.COM>
Subject: Installing my Carver P4 heater (long, part 2)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
In my post from last Friday, I had just finished putting the heater in my '74
bus after cutting the holes in the floor and kick panels under my rear seat.
Part 2: Propane Tank Refurbish, underbody clean up and gas line install.
In preparation of installing the flue and intake hoses for the P4, I decided
to drop my propane tank and do a little refurbishment before I hooked
everything up.
I disconnected the gas hose that runs to my stove and unbolted and dropped the
tank. My tank is still in good condition. There was a little surface rust on
the top, but the bottom of the tank had been protected with asphalt sealer.
Another listmember had pointed out the flaws in the Westy tanks where the
labels were only tack welded at the corners allowing water to seep in around
the edges and rust out the tank. So I cleaned up my tank with lacquer thinner
and then used rust convertor on the surface rust. I then lightly sanded the
tank and applied a couple of coats of non sanding rusty metal primer. To seal
up around the labels I used some polyester non shrinking spot putty, shot a
little more primer and then top coated with some bright red Krylon.
Most of the paint had come off the brass fittings when I cleaned the tank with
the solvent, so I used some brass polish and some clear coat on them.
Next I took a look under the bus to see what needed to be done on the
underside above and around the propane tank. My bus had a sprayed on asphalt
sealer applied at one time, which did a very nice job of keeping the rust at
bay. There is a little bit of surface rust in the areas where the
undercoating had dried and flaked off.
Using a couple of scrapers and dull screwdrivers, I attacked the loose under
coating scraping away at it for many hours. After I thought I had removed all
that would easily come off, I tried spraying it with some engine degreaser,
which only made a modest improvement. I then loaded up some kerosene in a
spray bottle and soaked all the remaining asphalt hoping to loosen it up.
Dipping steel wool into the kerosene, I scrubbed away at the coating and after
many more hours, had a beautiful clean area under my bus.
The frame rail came to life with the Yosemite Yellow color of my bus, and the
bottom of the floor area was a very clean factory gray color. My bus hasn't
looked like this since she left the factory 24 years ago. I then used some
rags and more lacquer thinner to wipe everything down before applying more
rust convertor and primer.
Before putting the propane tank back on, I added a T connection to the
regulator and attached 2 shut off valves to be able to separately shut off
the Carver P4, or propane stove. I then reinstalled the propane tank and ran
the 1/4" copper line under the bus, along the frame rail and then up under my
rear seat through another hole I drilled. Using an idea from another list
member (you guys are great, and thanks Larry J.!) I covered the gas line with
black plastic wire loom to help protect it.
I then focused my attention to the exhaust and intake hoses.
Carver says that the hoses need to both be about the same length. With this
in mind, I had previously cut the supplied stainless tubing in half before
clamping it to the P4 and running it under the bus. The exhaust tubing also
has a shorter and larger diameter outer tubing that runs out from the heater
about a foot. This makes the exhaust flue double walled.
Carver also says that the tubing needs to run completely flat, or in a
continuous drop so no water will collect. This presents a challenge as I
didn't have many attachment points low enough to mount the hose to. I ended
up mounting my exhaust hose to the side of the rear jack point on the
passenger side. Carver warns against mounting the exhaust near any door, but
for now I will leave it here and install a CO detector just to be safe.
I then drilled a hole in my propane tank guard to mount the intake hose to.
This worked out well, but the hose is unprotected running over there, so I may
have to install a custom rock guard to help protect it.
I may even end up moving both hoses to the other side, and make some custom
mounts to get the hoses running downhill and protect them. But I'll wait
until I see how the current setup works.
I still need to connect the wiring and thermostat. This will take a little
effort as my dual battery setup does not currently work, and will need to be
troublshot and repaired before I can proceed. Worst case, I'll hook up
temporary power to get the heater running so I can test it.
Long term plans involve the installation of a charging station in my rear
cabinet from a '75 Westy.
The installation of the P4 heater has not taken more than a couple of hours so
far. I have spent several more hours on cleaning, repainting and other
general maintenance though.
So soon to come, Part III, Powering up and Testing.
Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises
Importing German Side Tents, Carver P4 Heaters and accessories for Volkswagen
Eurovan, Vanagon and Bus.
http://members.aol.com/tentinfo
