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Date:         Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:59:00 -0500
Reply-To:     Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV>
Subject:      Re: Removing head studs
Comments: To: cdo9@CSI.COM, vanagon@VANAGON.COM
In-Reply-To:  <00a801be1706$3e7d6340$6664a8c0@CliffOber.texas.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 11:25 AM 11/23/98 -0600, Cliff wrote: >Karl, > >I have done some banging on the ends of the studs, but how hard is too hard? >I've really rapped them, but with no visible effect. > >What kind of stud remover are you talking about? Is this a wrench bit of >some sort? > >Cliff > >-----Original Message----- > > >> Try tapping straight on the end of the stud (broken or otherwise) to break >> the 'tension' between the case and the stud. At some point, even close to >> the bottom, it has to come loose! I also use a stud remover when there is >> enough stud protruding for it to grasp. Be sure to protect the innards of >> the engine, as well as the connecting rods, from the welding splatter. I >> assume you are using a MIG welder- I wouldn't recommend any other >> type,unless you have a TIG. Good luck, give me a yell if you need more >help. > > Cliff, AVP ( the engine rebuilder in Ca.) recommended to use an air impact wrench without a socket on the end to beat on the end of the stud to loosen it.

Rick Koller '90 syncro-westie '91 auto box


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