Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:03:06 -0800
Reply-To: Davidson <wdavidson@JPS.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Davidson <wdavidson@JPS.NET>
Subject: Re: Power wiring/headlights
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Al,
I've asked a lot of questions to the list so I'm not quite sure which one
you are responding to.
What I want to achieve is better low beam lighting for my 90 Westy Syncro.
Right now they are so dim I think they are dangerous.
I would prefer to keep the stock square headlight look of the later model
Vanagons rather than to go to the round headlights of earlier years.
From my questions and my reading of the archives, it seems there are no
square replacement headlights available.
There have been suggestions that the stock wire is either too small (too
much resistance) and or the connectors may be corroded causing the stock
headlights to be underpowered and dim.
What I am thinking is to use a set up like you suggest below for my stock
headlights. This should improve the voltage available to them and thus the
lighting. I think. If it works like this the lights should be brighter,
though there will be no improvement in the angle of the lighting.
Does this sound reasonable? Any other suggestions?
Also, please note I have embedded clarification questions in your original
text below:
Thanks for answering,
Bill
90 Westy Syncro
Lake Tahoe
----------
> From: AL_KNOLL@HP-Roseville-om2.om.hp.com
> To: wdavidson@JPS.NET
> Cc: KNOLL_AL/HP-Roseville_om2@venus.rose.hp.com
> Subject: Power wiring.
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 11:18 AM
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> das poop:
>
> You'll want to purchase four 30A relays and a 4fuse distribution block.
>
> Run a direct wire from the battery to the dist block. Use the switched
> 12VDC from your present headlight system to trigger the relays.
Just pick up off the existing wiring from the rocker switch for the low
beams and from the turn signal arm switch for the high beams?
>
> Put the fuses between the 12 off the block and the 12 supply to the
relays.
Should this read: Put the fuses between the 12v battery and the relays?
(Wire runs from battery to fuse block to relays to lights? With existing
high and low beam wiring running to relays?)
>
> This fuses the lights individually so a failure doesn't leave you in the
> dark so to speak.
>
> Minimizes contact degradation on the switch and maximizes drive voltage
and
> available current to the lights them selves.
>
> 4x100W = 400W
Is this the wattage for after market bulbs or stock?
Can I use existing headlights with larger wattage bulbs?
>
> at 12.5VDC this is ~32-40Amps far too much for the ordinary switch.
>
> You'll also want to fab up a wiring harness for the lights that uses at
least
> 14AWG copper for the light leads and 12 or 10 for the battery supply.
By harness you mean using wires with connector/plugs on both ends to
connect the lights to the relays?
And soldering the wires to the connector/plugs?
>
> Have a local shop solder the leads. Crimps will overheat, melt the
plastic and
> eventually fail. NB this is only necessary for the POWER leads not the
signal
> leads from the switches.
Can I solder these myself or is it necessary to have a shop do it?
NB?
Signal leads are the stock wires from the high and low beam switches
correct?
>
> al (it takes an "ee" to make a dweeb)
Are you calling me a dweeb?????? :)
Thanks,
Bill
90 Westy Syncro
Lake Tahoe
>
