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Date:   Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:43:10 EST
Reply-To:   Jwilli941@AOL.COM
Sender:   Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:   Todd Hill <Jwilli941@AOL.COM>
Subject:   Re: Karl Mullendore's remote Syncro trans rebuild
Content-type:   text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM writes:

<< I'm getting ready to attempt a partial (I hope) rebuild on my Syncro transmission, >>

I wish you luck on a 'partial' but with the amount of labor and time that will be required to do this I would strongly advise going all out and replacing anything that even looks suspicious. Especially with 260+K (157K miles) on it.

You have the special socket to remove the screw in side covers for the diff bearings, and the special socket to remove the 80mm lock ring for the pinion bearing? A depth gauge to measure how far in the side covers go so you properly set the differential bearing preload? You also have the 1st gear inner race lock nut socket? The press tool to push the gear clusters out of the main case? A press fixture to support the gear carrier housing when you press the gear stacks out? The usual assortment of hand tools for a job like this? If so, it sounds like you're up to speed in that department and ready to tackle this job.

The late style 3rd/4th hub appears identical to the early style except for one very important area. There are 3 slots in the hub for 'keys', 'dogs', or 'blockers' depending on whom you ask as to what they are called. The slots will be cut square at the bottom on the old style and the new version will be rounded. Also, I believe that the heat treatment used on the new version is different from the old style and therefore will flex a bit more without causing stress cracks. The part I got from a local VW dealer last week was a 091-311-301B.

For syncros I'd go for the VW dealer version if the budget will allow. Figure on about $60 a pop for those (4). If you are looking for a 'good' deal then go for the German Laso brand at about half that amount. I'm not positive but believe that Laso is the O.E.M for VW on these rings. There are also Brazilian versions available for half the cost of Laso rings. I routinely use this brand (Diehl) in my Type I and Type II rebuilds and have had excellent success with these but have not yet installed into a later 091-1 box. Whichever brand you use make sure that they are moly coated- they'll look like someone was using some black spray paint nearby and the rings got some overspray from it.

Bit of syncro trivia here. Most shops will want to sell you a 091-311-247B 1st gear syncro and 091-311-295A for 2nd- 4th. In one area of the Bentley in a small paragraph they will state that the replacement syncros for a rebuild is the 295A for all gears. However, brand spankin' new gearboxes with zero miles will come with the 247B version on 1st! Either syncro will work on 1st and I have never seen a difference in performance between the two. If I have a 247B in the box, I'll use that. If I have a 295A in the box, I'll use that one. The 247B's tend to be a few dollars less so you might consider it over the 295A. For me, not routinely carrying the 247B means one less thing to worry about. (Tom Brunson- your's has a 247B in it!)

Anyway, enough rambling about the inner secrets of the mysterious part called a transaxle. Some of you are starting to get glassy eyed at this point. There are other areas that you should cast a sharp eye on so if you have any other questions please feel free to post me a note. I'll get back to you as quickly as I can!

-Todd Hill VolksWerks Transaxles Olympia, WA 360-412-0948


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