Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:13:18 -0600
Reply-To:     Blue Eyes <lvlearn@MCI2000.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Blue Eyes <lvlearn@MCI2000.COM>
Organization: Vexation Computer
Subject:      Re: clutch bleeding/ARCHIVES!??
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

"I'm unfamiliar with bleeding the clutch line, I thought i
was going to be able to manage but...guess what.  How do i
go about bleeding the system, are there any tricks.  I do
have a second person, whom i know I'll need, any
hints/tips/tricks will be much appreciated thanks
jon"

An old trick is to use piece of clear aquarium line and push
that onto the bleeder output.  If it's inflexible, heat it
with a flame to soften it.  Run the other end  into the very
bottom of a good sized clear cup.  I've taped it into the
cup so it stays there long enough to compete this bleeding.
Open the bleeder valve just enough so that the high pressure
of compressing the clutch will blow out fluid, but the low
pressure or resetting the master cylinder to the top of its
stroke won't pull as much back in through the bleeder
valve.  Pump and fill at the master cylinder until the clear
line shows no bubbles and appears to show only clean fluid.
Then, without removing the clear line, close the bleeder
valve.  You're done.   You can also buy a kit for $20 to do
this instead of using $.25 worth of aquarium line if that
makes you feel like a hero.

Brake fluid has a high affinity for moisture which it can
absorb from the air.  Those rubber gaskets isolating your
fluid from air contact are important.  Maintain their seal.
It is suggested that you replace this fluid occasionally
anyway, so I do NOT suggest that you recycle the captured
fluid from your bottom cup.  Consider it a flush.  The
expense is well justified.

This same procedure can be applied to brakes, but always
start at the most remote slave cylinder and progress closer
to the master.
John