Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 17:20:19 -0800
Reply-To: Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Subject: Re: Non-remote Mirror fix
In-Reply-To: <v01540b00b2c2e02c390a@[216.107.8.192]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I'll pass along a similar fix which does away with the grinding and gluing.
Follow Dave's instructions up to and including pulling the old stud out.
But instead of regluing the stud, find a bolt with the same size thread as
the threaded portion of the stud, and a bit longer. Run the nut right up to
the head of that bolt then screw the bolt into the square hole that the
original stud came out of. When it is in tight, move the nut down the bolt
a bit to allow you to hacksaw the end of the bolt off, then run the nut up
and off the cut end (hopefully straightening out any bad threads). then
reassemble mirror
I did this fix to one of my mirrors a year ago and it has held.
Alistair
>This is to pass along a fix for non-remote mirrors (which I covet).
>So, you've got floppy mirrors, eh? Well the following repair that I made to
>my passenger side mirror has been working fine and doesn't take a lot of
>talent (good thing in my case).
>
>You will need:
>tube of JB Weld
>vise
>Vise grips
>bench grinder (wear safety goggles/gloves/french maid uniform if you want)
>keen line of vision
>beer (optional)
>
>1-Remove mirror from side of door. (If you can't do this, stop reading now!)
>2-Disassemble the nut/spring assembly making note of where things go. Draw
>a picture if you need to.
>3-Now...place the arm of the mirror in a vise so that you can pull on the
>stud extending from the swivel part. and it won't slip. Pad it with some
>old cloths or something. Don't tighten to tight.
>4-With appropriatly sized vise grip, grasp the smooth part of the shaft &
>clamp down firmly.
>5-Pull the stud. Pull some more. Pull hard enough to pull it out.
>6-When stud is removed; rest, have a beer. Look at the way the bolt emerges
>from the socket. Remember it.
>7-Now to use the grinder. Just remove material from the surfaces of each of
>the six sides and end to make room for JB Weld to fuse the metal stud and
>the white cast metal of the mirror support arm. I removed about 1-1.5 mm I
>would guess.
>8-Periodically test fit the stud to fit loosely in the previous home of the
>mirror support arm. You want enough room to glop some JB weld in there and
>get a good contact between the two.
>9-Mix up JB Weld.
>10- Glop some JB Weld into the hole. Glop some JB Weld onto the surface of
>the stud. Not too much, just coat _all_ surfaces.
>11-Insert stud so that it resembles it's position before you removed it.
>12- Clean around area of socket to ensure smooth surface contact between
>the ball and the socket.
>13-Assemble to look for clearances. Fix any problrms. Quickly. Dissasembe
>for curing.
>14-Postion the mirror for curing so that the stud protruding from the arm
>now points straight up or position a clamp to hold it in place during
>curing.
>15-After about a day or so resemble and enjoy a tight mirror.!
>
>Looking backward,
>
>Dave Caston & Sherrie Payne
>Two nuts hangin' in the Allentown,PA tree!
>E-Mail: cdcaston@nni.com
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