Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (January 1999, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:20:45 -0500
Reply-To:     Robert Rountree <rountree@PLANETEER.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Rountree <rountree@PLANETEER.COM>
Subject:      Re: Bleeding Cooling system per Bentley
Comments: To: Jim Arnott <jrasite@EONI.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Very nice explanation Jim.... lots of work, thanks for all the trouble... Just one thing... he has an 84... so drop step #6

-----Original Message----- From: Jim Arnott <jrasite@EONI.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 1:32 AM Subject: Bleeding Cooling system per Bentley

>John, > >Here's how it's done. (per Bentley pgs. 19.16-19.17) > >1. raise front end about 40 cm (15 3/4 in.) >2. set heater control to max heat >3. open control valve for rear heater >4. remove grill >5. open bleeder screw on passenger side top of radiator >6. open bleeder valve at front of engine compartment (on black plastic >fitting with 4 large radiator hoses connecting to it.) >7. fill coolant until expansion tank the one on the left, NOT the overflow >tank on the right.) is full (approx. 4-5 liter (4.25-5.3 US qt.)) >8. start engine >9. at approx. 2000 rpm fill expansion tank until coolant flows from bleeder >screw in radiator bubble free (it takes two people!) >10. add coolant until expansion tank is full and close tank with cap >11. turn ignition off and start engine again after about 20 seconds >12. raise engine speed to approx. 2000 rpm and open cap of expansion tank >13. close bleeder screw on radiator when coolant flows out (need that friend again!) >14. add coolant if necessary and close tank >15. close bleeder screw in engine compartment >16. turn engine off >17. top up overflow tank >18. reinstall grill >19. lower front end >20. drive for a couple days and keep an eye on the coolant level. (my >suggestion, not VW's) > >Miscellaneous notes: A set of ramps helps get the front end up, but they're >not really tall enough. 15.75 inches is WAAAY up there. You've got to have >that friend. You're going to put about a gallon of coolant on the ground. I >premix the coolant 50-50 before I start because VAG is very specific about the >ratio. I've heard it said that tap water is better than distilled due to >coolant being formulated to work with the chemistry of the water. I use the >orange long life stuff. Others prefer the genuine Autobahn stuff. Still >others just use plain old ethylene glycol coolant. Truth be told, I don't >think it really makes that much difference and I have yet to see any >quantitive data on one vs. the other. (An aside; my '83.5 was dealer >maintained for the first ten years and 125k miles of its life. Came with ALL >recipts. When I bought it (second owner) it had GREEN coolant.) > >Jim Arnott >WetWesties >Union, OR >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.