Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:51:09 -0800
Reply-To: Austin <austins@IX.NETCOM.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Austin <austins@IX.NETCOM.COM>
Subject: Re: Non-remote Mirror fix
In-Reply-To: <369E356B.D6306FAE@flash.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
At 12:20 PM 1/14/99 -0600, you wrote:
>The Bus Depot wrote:
>>
>> Frankly, with a brand new mirror running only $19.95, I'm not sure if I'd
>> bother to buy JB Weld and go through an elaborate procedure fixing the old
>> one. Of course it's your time and money, and your choice, but you may not
>> have been aware that replacement mirrors (of the non-power variety) are
very
>> cheap to replace.
>>
>> - Ron Salmon
> Ron et. al.,
>I must stringently disagree with you here, I purchased two new mirrors
from you
>only to find, that after much removal (5 times per side: driver/pass) the
>mirrors will still only hold steady for say six weeks. I feel they are of
very
>poor design and possibly of inferior craftsmanship, most likely both. I am so
>disgusted (could anyone tell?) with this mirror situation for in my wife's
case
>this is a safety consideration I am considering power mirrors, except I can't
>afford them presently.
>Does anyone have a relatively -easy- fix for these poorly designed/made
mirrors?
>The previous posts still have me looking to save $$ for remotes from a
junker.
>
>--
>><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>
>Shalom 87 GL
>Mark Magee 91 Westy
I fixed mine a few years ago, no problems since (except that the oem
plastic does show some stress cracking around the edges of the socket - no
problem yet).
The problem is poor design, basically leading to the threaded stud pulling
out of the plastic it's molded into (& they *are* 'insert molded', so it's
really stupid that they never put a mushroom or some knurling on the studs
to prevent this - at least they are made from hex stock so they don't spin
too easily).
The fix: force the threaded stud back up into the socket as far as
possible (don't bugger the threads); hold the socket gently in a vice &
carefully drill a 1/8 diam hole eyeballed near center so it's sure to go
through the stud, then tap or press in a 1/8 stainless dowel pin, 1" long.
If you're close to center, the pin will barely protrude at both ends. &
if you have access to a drill press it'll be much easier than a hand drill,
but that'll do too in a pinch if you're slow & careful.
Austin
| 
