Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (January 1999, week 5)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:36:13 -0600
Reply-To:     Dave <dave@V-DUB.MUSA.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave <dave@V-DUB.MUSA.COM>
Subject:      Re: Soldered Connections
Comments: To: KENWILFY@AOL.COM
Comments: cc: Vanagon List <Vanagon@Vanagon.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I do not agree with your logic, a crimp connection is far more likely to vibrate apart than a properly soldered connection. As for the issue of corrosion you must clean any soldered joint to remove flux. Flux solvent or isopropyl alcohol work well. Actually Isopropyl alcohol leaves its own residue, the best solvent is Ethel Alcohol (good luck trying to buy it). Flux is a corrosive liquid residue that left over from the solder. Most solder has a "rosin" core that contains the flux, flux helps the solder "stick" to the metal. To make a solder connection that would be highly resistant to breakage or corrosion I would do in the way David recommended with one addition, hook each of the wires to form a good mechanical connection. If you're really worried about strength use silver solder. BTW never use electrical tape, it doesn't seal and leaves an awful sticky mess, always use heatshrink, if the situation is such that heat shrink is not an option use coldshrink (the stuff that stretches and uses no adhesive). That's how we do it on our nuclear reactor.

Dave Filcoff dave@v-dub.musa.com Volkswagens! http://v-dub.musa.com ------------------------------------------------------ 87 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Weekender (132k) 88 Fox GL 4 door (154k) 90 Associated RC10 Team Car, Aluminum 95 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 FS ------------------------------------------------------ St. Louis / Columbia, MO LiMBO - Gateway VW Club - VWoA VW Club - Missouri Micros

>>> Have to respectfully disagree here. A good crimp connection beats a soldered connection anyday. First of all a soldered connection is brittle and with any amount of flexing or vibration over time it will break. Also if you don't clean up the connection after soldering it will corrode much faster than a crimped connection. Best scenerio is use some clear plastic tubing. Cut a piece long enough to cover your junction. Then slide it on the wire. Now crimp your connection together. Slide the clear tube over the connection and then tie the ends of the tube with some thin string (or use the shrinkwrap method). Thats how we do it on aircraft. Ever wonder why those Vanagon power window switches go bad? The connections are soldered and they break. Ken Wilford Van-Again John 3:16 <<<


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.