Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 13:42:13 PST
Reply-To: vwvanman@EXCITE.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@EXCITE.COM>
Subject: 2.1L Wasserboxer Power Rebuild
Content-Type: text/plain
When I set out to rebuild my engine my main goal was an increase in
reliability power, and, economy. I took my knowledge from working with T1
and T4 engines and applied it to my 2.1L Wasserboxer.
I did not want to swap my engine for another type of power plant and
introduce another set of problems to worry about…Check out the water-cooled
news group and read about their problems… If I buy a used engine somewhere
what is the actual condition of the engine? Was it abused? Was it someone
else's nightmare? What if the timing belt breaks? (Vanagons do not have a
timing belt to break or change $$$) If I buy new how good was it put
together, all the modifying, converting, fabricating of parts what if one
breaks… how long until a replacement?
I set out to address the known weak spots of the Wasserboxer and Combine
that with performance enhancing parts for a T1 engine to build a reliable
engine to eliminate possible weak part breakdown.
Wasserboxer problems and weakness:
Head corrosion
Crank breakage
Rod breakage
Crank center flexing
Wire clips and wavy washers used in the rocker arms.
The following engine specs build:
- 2.1L case cleaned, ALL surfaces cleaned until ALL traces of old gasket
material was removed about 10 hours of cleaning.
-Counter weighted crank
-Full engine balance- all rotating parts as a unit: crank, hub, pressure
plate, and flywheel. Rebuild rods and balanced end for end.
-Blue printed oil pump. Cover has .000 clearance (gasket provides
clearance, match port the inlet and outlet of oil pump, radiuses oil inlet
and outlet in side pump to improve oil flow)
-Slight Increase cam lift and 10 degrees of overlap
-Added 1.25 ratio Rhino rocker arms
-Rhino swivel rocker feet (9mm shaft)
-Chromoly push rods (Lightened valve train 65 percent, the set of 8 Chromoly
push rods weigh as much as 3 stock steel push rods)
-CM retainers
-Racing valve locks
-Solid rocker shafts
-New AMC cylinder heads
-Ceramic coated heads, sealing surface, exhaust system, pistons, exhaust
valve radius, exhaust port.-Mild porting of the intake and exhaust ports
-3 Angle valve job on seats, 2 angle on valves
-Copper exhaust gaskets
-Aluminum Valve clip-on valve covers vented to tie in with the case breather
port.
-Racing clutch bolts
-Five speed Transmission, locking differential, .70 fifth gear, welded
clutch fork, urethane shaft bushing, shortened front engine mount, new CV
boots
New:
Clutch Master and slave cylinders, Brake Master cylinder, rebuild calipers,
Rotors, Bearings, Brake Pads, Clutch disk, all engine coolant hoses from the
large pipes back, coil, Thermostat housing, thermostat, Distribution pipe,
fuel line and clamps.
I spent over 150 hours in the removal, disassembly, cleaning, conferring
with VW experts, calling, assembly and installation of the engine and
transmission (Around 50 for the install alone). When I built and installed
it , I wanted to be perfect as possible.
The 5-speed transaxle gearing is better matched to the various speed zones.
25 35 45 the RPMs are @3K.
I am using my stock four speed shifter but will switch to the five speed
shifter because it will shift smoother.
I just got my inspection and these are the specs:
33ppm with 250ppm max
.02% with 1.5% max
The inspector did not think it was going to pass and was shocked that it was
that low.
The web site will be up soon as I get the photos back and get some time to
put it together.
Robert
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