Date:         Thu, 18 Feb 1999 09:31:32 -0800
Reply-To:     Davidson <wdavidson@THEGRID.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Davidson <wdavidson@THEGRID.NET>
Subject:      Re: Battery Circuit Breaker
Comments: To: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@JUNO.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

There is lots of information and specifications at the web site:
www.bussman.com
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@JUNO.COM>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Date: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Circuit Breaker


>Joshua;
>        Fuse ratings can really get bewildering. At work I probably could
>find a dozen different 2 amp fuses, fast blow, slo blow, 125v, 250v, 10v,
>etc.. You almost need an engineering degree. That's why I am hesitant to
>recommend a battery fuse. Apply a mismatch and without fail you will find
>yourself in the middle of nowhere, "dead in the water".
>Drive Safely & Good Luck
>Ken Lewis<Kernersville,NC>86 VW crewcab;60 T-5 Coupe
>
>On Wed, 17 Feb 1999 19:07:17 -0600 Joshua Van Tol <jjvantol@USWEST.NET>
>writes:
>>
>>You'll have problems with nuisance blowing if you only go 25% over
>>capacity. Typical sizing is 1.5 to 2.0 times the rated current. Some
>>loads, such as motors, have fuses that are sized to take the turn on
>>current, which could be several times higher than the running current.
>>
>>As an example of what I'm talking about, your headlights are probably
>>45 W low beams. They have a 10A fuse, which translates to a load of
>>10 * 14 = 140 W at 14 volts.
>>
>>As you say, there's really no good way to fuse the battery lead.
>>You'd need a 400 A fuse or so, and that really wouldn't do any good
>>unless the power lead fell off and touched the frame.
>>
>>Joshua Van Tol -- jjvantol@uswest.net
>>
>
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