Martin: Excellent points! Definitely replace the seals and pilot bearing while everything is opened up! I have also had the problem of the differential casting getting in the way of re-installing the shaft and the circlip seems to only be on the diesel tranny. The reverse gear just *barely* doesn't want to slide down the shaft due to the interference. I have done this 3 times on gas trannys, and once on the diesel. On the diesel, I had to unscrew the retaining ring on the side of the trans a few turns to shift the diff out of the way. No problems on the gas ones. Gear slid down the shaft just fine! I think the stud is M6mmx1.25 pitch or M8mmx1.25...but that is way too trivial for me. Todd may have the exact size for us. Martin Jagersand wrote: > > Gary, > > I'd strongly recommend alternative 2 below. Do it right since you're > rebuilding the engine anyway. > > It should only take an hour or two to pop the bellhousing and get > the stud out. Main problem is that hands (at least mine) don't fit > inside the gearbox with the diff installed. Use long neddle noose pliers > to get the stud out. > > Also while at it: replace the input shaft seal (likely damaged when > the shaft was pulled through), and pilot bearing (likely cause of > the shaft sticking to the engine and pulling out in the first > place.) Each one is just a few $ (5 or 6) from the flaps. > > -- TomC tcarrington@relitech.com http://www.relitech.com/tomc/tomvw.htm 85 Vanagon Crew Cab 82 Vanagon Westy diesel=>gas conversion 65 Notchback |
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