Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 11:29:39 -0700
Reply-To: Curtis Graham <CGRAHAM@NOVELL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Curtis Graham <CGRAHAM@NOVELL.COM>
Subject: Re: can I fix my power steering?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Kevin,
I just replaced the rack yesterday in my 85 Gl.. Took about 3 hours which was longer than I expected.
Here's what I needed:
-ball joint sperator (get for under 10 bucks at FLAPS)
-13m,17m,19m,7/8inch (worked fine since I didnn't have a larger metric) wrench
-13m,17m,19m sockets
-locking pliers, needle nose pliers,hammer,vice
-new cotter pins (1 or 1.5 inch will work. Get these at FLAPS)
Here's what I did to remove:
1) Put the front on jack stands
2) Removed wheels
3) Picked a side and removed the cotter pin from the tie rod end ball joint with needle nose, vice grips, hammer etc.
4) Undid the 17mm nut below the ball joint and used seperator with hammer to pop out ball joint.
5) Did the other side.
6) Removed the 13 mm bolt and nut that connect the steering u-joint to the rack.
7) Removed the two fluid pressure lines connected to the rack (19 mm and 7/8inch). Got fluid all over.
8) Removed the four 13mm bolt/nuts that secure the rack to the body. Had to reach up behind with the wrench on the nut while loosening the bolt with a socket. The upper two were kind of a pain.
9) Rack came out easy, in fact I had to catch it.
10) Important -- with rack on the floor I counted the exposed threads between the tie rod end ball joint and tie rod on each side of the rack, Wrote this down for later.
11) Removed the tie rod ends (ball joints) by loosening their retaining nuts and then "unscrewing" them from the tie rods. Used a vice to secure the tie rod while loosening the retaining nuts (17mm or 19mm), but locking pliers would also work.
12) Removed the two brass fittings (19mm 7/8i) that the pressure hoses attach to on the rack.
Here's what I did to install assuming you'll have a rebuilt rack with tie rods included (that's what I got from Bus Depot)
1) Installed the tie rod ends I just removed (thought about new ones but mine were fine) keeping the same number of threads exposed as on the old rack after tightening the retaining nuts.
2) Installed the brass fluid fittings on new rack being careful not to over-torque these because they're soft. Covered them with plastic wrap to keep crap out while installing rack.
3) Lifted the rack into position under the van and cussed like a sailor trying to mate the u-joint with the pinion on the rack. This was definately the hardest part for me. Prying the u-joint's opening wider was also a pain since it likes to move around so much.. I used a hammer and screw driver several times and finally got it. I had to support the rack with my knees while I held the u-joint with one hand and pounded the rack with the other to finally get it in there. You must get it all the way on.
4) Put the four retaining bolts and nuts back on.
5) Put the u-joint bolt and nut back on. Put some grease on u-joint.
6) Removed wrap and intalled fluid lines (taking care not to over-torque)
7) Reinstalled the ball joints pounding lightly with a hammer on top. Threaded nuts back on and installed new cotter pins.
8) With van still up filled the power steering reservoir with Dextron ATF (took less than a quart). Started van and turned wheel all the way from one siide to the other several times. Checked fluid level and topped up. Repeated this a couple of times until the fluid leveled off.
9) Put the wheels back on and lowered the van.
I still need to pull steering wheel and realign it.
Good luck if you decide to do it.
>>> Kevin Sullivan <ksull@MBARI.ORG> 03/16/99 06:26PM >>>
I didn't get any replies last week so I going to
post my question one more time:
Can a person with basic tools replace the power steering rack
or should I have it done by a pro?
I looked in the Bentley but it doesn't seem to have a procedure
for removing it.
Kevin
