Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:38:29 -0600
Reply-To: Les Ross <lesross@IO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Les Ross <lesross@IO.COM>
Subject: remove
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>There are 24 messages totalling 1000 lines in this issue.
>
>Topics in this special issue:
>
> 1. Final - 91 bucking and Digitool
> 2. Air Cool Pushrod Tube Install
> 3. Brake cleaner, tire treads, and organics
> 4. fuel injector hose (4)
> 5. FW: Syncro Westy for sale!
> 6. Front Windshield Leak
> 7. Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant. (2)
> 8. temp sensor-86 vanagon
> 9. CV 12 pt tool
> 10. biodegradation, organics, etc.
> 11. Need Speaker Advice (2)
> 12. NO VW CONTENT: RE: biodegradation, organics, etc.
> 13. Fear of asking a question?? Gee wonder why... [long'ish]
> 14. Tire question..
> 15. Power Door Lock Problems Persist (2)
> 16. Fwd: Euro-Engine: 87 Volkswagen Vanagon, Mechanical, cylinder head and
> piston sleeves
> 17. Mechanic says my '88 ECU ist KAPUT !
> 18. Battery draining, or bad battery?
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:36:20 -0800
>From: Nathaniel Merrill <nmerrill@PARAMETRIX.COM>
>Subject: Final - 91 bucking and Digitool
>
>Last post I spelled out the symptoms and the digitool readings which =
>pointed me directly to a faulty throttle position switch. I purchased a =
>new switch (Dealer $77) and installed it Saturday. The job was a piece of =
>cake and while I was at it I cleaned everything I could get at with the =
>stuff all removed (air box/AFM, throttle body) and lubricated the throttle =
>"valve" well (and the cable). I put it all together and the van runs =
>great. Only problem I had was I apparently pulled the throttle cable to =
>tight and on my test drive it some how tightened up and my idle went to =
>around 3 grand. Backed the cable off and all is well. Back to loving my =
>westy!
>Nat
>Seattle =20
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:05:28 -0800
>From: David Easterwood <deasterw@SPSU.EDU>
>Subject: Re: Air Cool Pushrod Tube Install
>
>At 10:22 AM 3/21/99 EST, John Reynolds wrote:
>>Help! - I just can't get seem to get the these things to seat properly.
>>The Haynes and Wilson book just says push them in, but it ain't (at least
>>for me) that easy. Muir says to use visegrips on the tube and bang them
>>- Well I'm not going to follow that route (although that was necessary to
>>remove the originals) These are new tubes, seals and I lubed them. I
>>put a large washer on the end on the tube and banged that, put even
>>still, it just doesn'e seem to go in as far as one wihout seals installed
>
>John,
>
>A trick I learned to seat type 4 pushrods is to cut about 6 inches off of
>your favorite broom or mop handle, insert the rounded end into the end of
>the pushrod tube, and gently tap the wooden handle with a hammer until the
>pushrod tube seats.
>
>Dave
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:58:41 -0800
>From: Steve <Steve@SCHWENK-LAW.COM>
>Subject: Re: Brake cleaner, tire treads, and organics
>
>No...but i did find out that we're all gonna die anyway. Imagine that!
>steve
>
>"Robert A. Alexander" wrote:
>
>> <<<Hey, have you been able to find out whether or not exposure to
>> figerglas
>> fibers can result in mesothelioma in human beings OR snail darters???>>
>>
>> BOB - WA4RRN
>> '85GL - "Bourgeois"
>> http://www.enviromentalbullshit.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:08:23 -0500
>From: Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV>
>Subject: fuel injector hose
>
>Hi all,
> The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom
>of the
>real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small length
>of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet
>system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable option
>as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks.
>
>Rick Koller
>'90 syncro westie
>'91 gl autobox
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:49:39 -0800
>From: Ron 'Coyote' Lussier <coyote@LENSCRAFT.COM>
>Subject: FW: Syncro Westy for sale!
>
>Please reply to mist@mbay.net, not to me. Thanks.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MIST [mailto:mist@mbay.net]
>Sent: Sunday, March 21, 1999 7:59 PM
>To: coyote@vanagon.com
>Subject: Syncro Westy for sale! Please help sell or something ! :-)
>
>
>Moving to the UK in two months.... must sell here, or ship to UK. (panic)
>
>Alpine White, Westfalia Vanagon Syncro AWD Pop-Top Camper. Made in Austria!
>
>1989 Alpine White Westfalia Vanagon Syncro Pop-top camper with 3-way refrig,
>stove, cabinets, beds (upstairs and downstairs), with 191k miles. Recently,
>VW Dealer installed new engine. Transmission, drivetrain, A/C, rebuilt.
>Excellent running condition and very clean/rust-free interior & exterior.
>All maint records kept and available since birth.
>$18K OR BEST OFFER
>
>Art Neumann
>Monterey, CA
>evenings 831 384-5663
>or reply email is fast too!
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:48:08 +0100
>From: Cam Murphy <murphys@HS-ONLINE.DE>
>Subject: Front Windshield Leak
>
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>I have a small front windshield leak on the driver's side. There are no =
>windshield cracks. The water drips onto the floor mat just below the =
>clutch pedal, whether driving or parked. It is not the original =
>windshield, and I believe I have had this leak ever since I had the =
>windshield replaced. I believe it is a problem with the seal and should =
>be repairable at home. Unfortunately, I do not live close to where I had =
>it installed.
>
>Has anyone had a similar problem who would like to share their fix.
>
>Thanks
>
>Cam Murphy
>'84 Westy
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620
>Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
><HTML>
><HEAD>
>
><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.2016.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>I have a =
>small front=20
>windshield leak on the driver's side. There are no windshield=20
>cracks. The water drips onto the floor mat just below the clutch =
>pedal,=20
>whether driving or parked. It is not the original windshield, and =
>I=20
>believe I have had this leak ever since I had the windshield =
>replaced. I=20
>believe it is a problem with the seal and should be repairable at home.=20
>Unfortunately, I do not live close to where I had it=20
>installed.</FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20
>color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>Has anyone =
>had a similar=20
>problem who would like to share their fix.</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
>color=3D#000000><FONT face=3DArial><FONT =
>size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20
>color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT =
>face=3DArial><FONT=20
>size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20
>color=3D#000000>Thanks</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT=20
>face=3DArial><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT=20
>color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT =
>face=3DArial><FONT=20
>size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT face=3DArial><FONT color=3D#000000>Cam=20
>Murphy</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT =
>face=3DArial><FONT=20
>size=3D3></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D3>'84 =
>Westy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE749C.E8ECB620--
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:51:52 EST
>From: Ben Epsin <TeamSumo1@AOL.COM>
>Subject: Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant.
>
>Problem: idle speed averages about 1300 rpms and is unsteady; wavers between
>1200 and 1400. The idle screw is all the way in, lines are new and led
>correctly (as far as I know), and timing is perfect. Could the idle screw be
>too short? What should I be looking at? Any thoughts on how to correct this?
>The engine was bought, used, in longblock form and everything else was from my
>blown engine (hole in crankcase).
>
>Problem: can't get fluid to flow out of bleeder screw on radiator. I followed
>the procedure for filling the cooling system as outlined in my book but could
>never get any flow or even a hint of coolant out of the radiator bleeder.
>However, I think that the amount of coolant in the system is close to the
>capacity. Is this something to worry about? Is there a better way to do it?
>
>I think that many of the problems I am having are due to a poor manual. The
>car came with Vanagon, Official Factory Repair Manual by Robert Bentley. I
>find this manual to be poorly indexed, written, illustrated, and organized. I
>have used regular service manuals written by Bentley for other cars over the
>years (Jetta, Golf, Rabbit, Scirocco) and have been very happy with them.
>Does Bentley have a regular service manual for the Vanagon (not the "Official
>Factory" one)? Are there others out there to consider?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Ben B.
>'85 GL
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:54:24 -0500
>From: zyno <zyno@DC.INFI.NET>
>Subject: temp sensor-86 vanagon
>
>I'm looking for the temp sensor that sends signals to the ECU on a 86
>Vanagon?
>The number on the sensor is 025906041A.
>Thanks in advance,
>Tony
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:12:31 -0500
>From: Bill Knight <bill@NS.ESC.STATE.NC.US>
>Subject: Re: fuel injector hose
>
>Absolutely possible. Just slice the hose at the injector with a sharp
>exacto knife blade. Cut up under the metal ring using the narrow pointed
>end of the blade in order to reach the end of the hose which is protected by
>that ring. Then the hose will twist off and you will see that it is a
>barbed fitting. Just push the new piece of hose on and you are set. Just
>be sure to use the special high pressure 7mm hose. You can clamp it if you
>like, but the barbs hold it fine when you use the right kind of hose.
>
>Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf
>Of Rick Koller
>Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 1:08 PM
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: fuel injector hose
>
>
>Hi all,
> The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom
>of the
>real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small length
>of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet
>system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable option
>as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks.
>
>Rick Koller
>'90 syncro westie
>'91 gl autobox
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:09:32 EST
>From: Todd Hill <Jwilli941@AOL.COM>
>Subject: Re: CV 12 pt tool
>
> Eric.Henning@BAILEY.COM writes:
>
><< If you have the 12 pt sockets screws on you cv joints
> instead of the hex >>
>
>Something minor to mention here. The CV bolts aren't actually
>a '12 point' or 'triple-square' but are a 'XZN'. 99.99% of the time
>a 12pt. will work just fine and dandy, however. Take a hard look
>at a new CV bolt and you'll notice that the little squares aren't
>really set at 90* to each other. It looks more like 80* to me.
>
>Just some stupid trivia for your Monday enjoyment......
>
>-Todd Hill
> VolksWerks Transaxles
> Olympia, WA
> 360-412-0948
>
>PS-What do I use to get the bolts out? A 3/8ths socket from
>Wera. Will probably replace it soon with one from Mr. Snap-On.
>Someone should make a 'ball end' style similar to the ball end
>hex/allens. Might help with clearing the boot but then again it
>might not provide enough bite on the bolt and you end up rounding
>out the recess. Then you're stuck with the dreaded stripped CV
>bolt scenario and we all know how much fun that is!
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:17:12 PST
>From: Robert Lilley <vwvanman@EXCITE.COM>
>Subject: Re: fuel injector hose
>
>Rick,
>Yes it is. Cut off old fuel line as close to the injector as possible, then
>using a small knife or cutters, cut and pry out the remaining line. Cut a
>length of hose equal to orginal length and press it on tight. I cut the
>band off one before I saw the post on cutting out the old line. The three I
>did are on tight and have no drips after 3K miles.
>
>Use the rubber covered, Like orginal, NOT the cloth covered, the metal band
>will not hold the cloth covered. The band is too large and the cloth
>covered is too small to stay on under pressure.
>
>Bus Depot had some orginal type.
>
>Robert.
>
>
>
>> Hi all,
>> The archives are down so I thought I'd query the collective wisdom
>of the
>> real timers. Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the small
>length
>> of hose that fits directly on a fuel injector? This is a 1.9 digijet
>> system. I thought I saw posted, sometime ago, that this was a viable
>option
>> as opposed to buying new injectors. Thanks.
>>
>> Rick Koller
>> '90 syncro westie
>> '91 gl autobox
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Get your free, private email at http://mail.excite.com/
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:00:57 -0800
>From: Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
>Subject: Re: fuel injector hose
>
>There is another option to buying new injectors, have them rebuilt by a
>machine shop that has the right equipment. There are some expensive,
>specialized bench systems sold just for this purpose, so ask around or
>look in the yellow pages.
>
>I had mine done after 175,000 miles at my local NAPA machine shop for
>$35 each. New hoses, new injector needle and seat, flow tested and
>guaranteed. All they re-use is the body and solenoid winding.
>
>So far I am very satisfied--25,000 trouble free miles.
>--
>Stuart MacMillan
>Manager, Case Program
>800-909-8244 ext 208
>
>Getting your share of the Net yet?
>http://www.cobaltgroup.com
>http://www.casedealer.com/demo
>http://www.caseihdealer.com/demo
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:19:46 -0600
>From: Fred Younger <fyounger@AMFAM.COM>
>Subject: Re: Idling high and uneven. Problem filling with coolant.
>
>With regard to no coolant out of the bleed screw:
>How long did you wait? My temp gauge showed normal operating
>temperature (needle pointing near the light bulb) and then I had to
>wait several more minutes (don't remember exactly how long) before
>it came out. I was ready to give up on it.
>One other thought -- I had to ponder a bit before figuring out which
>tank you're supposed to pour the coolant into. It's the one on the
>left, with the cap on the top. But I'm not suggesting you're as slow
>as I am :>)
>
>------------
>Fred, have bled 85 GL, currently have 91 GL which will get new
>coolant in 3 weeks.
>
>
>Ben Epsin wrote:
>>
>> Problem: idle speed averages about 1300 rpms and is unsteady; wavers between
>> 1200 and 1400. The idle screw is all the way in, lines are new and led
>> correctly (as far as I know), and timing is perfect. Could the idle screw be
>> too short? What should I be looking at? Any thoughts on how to correct this?
>> The engine was bought, used, in longblock form and everything else was
>>from my
>> blown engine (hole in crankcase).
>>
>> Problem: can't get fluid to flow out of bleeder screw on radiator. I
>>followed
>> the procedure for filling the cooling system as outlined in my book but could
>> never get any flow or even a hint of coolant out of the radiator bleeder.
>> However, I think that the amount of coolant in the system is close to the
>> capacity. Is this something to worry about? Is there a better way to do it?
>>
>> I think that many of the problems I am having are due to a poor manual. The
>> car came with Vanagon, Official Factory Repair Manual by Robert Bentley. I
>> find this manual to be poorly indexed, written, illustrated, and
>>organized. I
>> have used regular service manuals written by Bentley for other cars over the
>> years (Jetta, Golf, Rabbit, Scirocco) and have been very happy with them.
>> Does Bentley have a regular service manual for the Vanagon (not the "Official
>> Factory" one)? Are there others out there to consider?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Ben B.
>> '85 GL
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:48:52 -0800
>From: Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
>Subject: biodegradation, organics, etc.
>
>Lets think about this subject a bit more...
>
>Where does the rubber/oil/fuel/coolant go? - on the road and medians, and
>into the ditches. And yes, some of it (who knows how much, I wish those
>who are so certain would reference their assertions) is degraded by
>bacteria.
>
>And bacteria are capable of breaking down a remarkably wide range of
>compounds.
>
>But let me give you one example where the process doesn't quite work as
>well as one might hope, that is in the degradation of de-icing fluids used
>on airplanes during the winter.
>
>Alot of it (glycols), is used, and it runs off the plane and onto the
>tarmac, through the drainage system and into the surface water system
>(unless the airport has been constructed recently or has been retrofitted
>with a catchment system). These glycols are somewhat toxic, organic or not,
>and do affect aquatic organisms in an adverse way.
Check out this new bumpersticker:
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