Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:45:01 -0400
Reply-To: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Subject: Fuel pump relay; spanky & alfalfa fix, was: '81 Westy,
fuel pump won't work.... why do I bother...
While I wouldn't bet the farm on it, in leaner times I've had some luck in
"fixing" this type of relay (and others) by gently opening them and
cleaning the contacts with a piece of emory paper, washing with 'lectronic
parts cleaner, reassembling.
Warning: this isn't an "in the driveway" operation. To get to the contacts
in the dual relay takes some surgery (and, if I recall kerrectly) a little
minor de-solder/soldering. But if you time is worth less than $50 an hour,
and if the contacts *really are the problem*, then it might be worth a try.
Or, just buy the relay, and forget about it. :)
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett & Associates
www.bulley-hewlett.com
Cary, NC USA
888.468.4880 tollfree
-----Original Message-----
From: The Bus Depot [SMTP:ron@NETCARRIER.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 10:04 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: '81 Westy, fuel pump won't work.... why do I bother...
> I have a problem. The fuel pump on my '81 automatic has stopped
> working. When I run a wire from the battery to it, it works, so there
> is nothing wrong with the pump itself.
>
> So, is there a relay for the pump as Haynes would lead me to believe?
> If so, where is it?
I'd guess that indeed the dual relay is not functioning. This is the relay
that turns the fuel pump on when you turn the key. It is located on the
engine firewall on an aircooled bus with the same engine you have; I'm
pretty sure its in the same location on an aircooled Vanagon. It's about
1"
tall by 4" wide and has two square plastic plugs going into it. New Bosch
replacements are in the $50 range, as I recall. You may want to check the
Bosch F.I. manual (I know there is a reprint on a website somewhere, don't
recall where), which will tell you which wires to test with a voltmeter to
ascertain that the correct voltage is getting to the relay in the first
place. This will confirm the relay itself as the culprit (likely) as
opposed
to the ECU or other components that help pass the signal to the relay (less
likely).
- Ron Salmon
The Bus Depot, Inc.
http://www.busdepot.com
(215) 234-VWVW
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