Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 23:46:36 -0700
Reply-To: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Subject: Waterboxer Coolant Drain and Flush Procedure
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
-----Original Message-----> From: Coby Smolens [mailto:cobys@well.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 1999 7:27 PM
To: Marshall Ruskin
Subject: RE: Re: Air Bleeder Installation/Cooling System Bleeding
Procedure
Correct! In order to do a complete "flush and fill" you'll have
to add a couple steps in advance of the bleeding procedure, as follows:
-- Set up containers to catch coolant below the engine and the
radiator. Remove cap from the main reservoir (left rear of engine
compartment - not the overflow reservoir behind the license
plate). Open (turn on full) both front and rear heater valves
(rear heater valve is accessed through an opening in passenger
side of the heater cover box under the rear seat. Pull the valve
forward to open. With some models (Westies mainly) you can get
the cover off the heater fairly easily, so you can open the
bleeder on top of the heater control valve to drain the heater
core. See note on this in my bleeding procedure.
-- If you're doing the job on the ground (not on a lift) raise
the rear end with a floor jack high enough to allow you to wiggle
around comfortably underneath. (Unless of course you're thin
enough to do so without lifting the car - I know some people who
do it this way.) USE JACK STANDS! A good alternative is to drive
the car onto a set of ramps (available at most parts stores for
c.$35.00 US) Remove both lower engine shrouds (the ones that
cover the push rod tubes) and remove the 6mm Allen headed plugs
from the bottom of each cylinder head. Lower the van to the
ground for proper draining (this is why I like ramps if I have to
do this out of the shop - you'll have to raise the thing again
later to reinstall the drain plugs and shrouds. With ramps you
just drive off and back on again. People get lazy about using
jack stands).
While the coolant is finishing draining at the back, go to the
front and raise it off the ground. (If you have the resources,
you can raise the whole car in the air (front and rear) enough so
that when you're finished draining coolant and reinstall head
plugs and shrouds in prep for filling you can lower the rear and
just leave the front up, as it's going to have to be raised 16"
for bleeding anyway).
-- Remove one end of each radiator hose. It doesn't matter which
end - I find it's easier to remove the rear end of each hose
because I find access easier. Be sure to be prepared for a gush
of coolant - there's going to be plenty left in the front even if
the rear is only dripping.
-- THIS PART IS NOT TO BE FOUND IN ANY BOOK: We like to put a
five gallon bucket under one of the radiator hoses and use a
garden hose to blast clean water through the opposite hose until it
comes clean from the other hose. Seal around the garden hose with
a rag. Then do the same through one of the big plastic coolant
pipes until clear water comes out the other pipe. Allow the
system to drip out. (No need to install the drain plugs prior to this
step - the 8mm holes lose a negligible amount of water compared to
the amount being pushed through the system by any self-respecting
garden hose. Thanks to Marshall Ruskin for asking...)
-- CHEMICAL FLUSH? We don't use any. Too nervous about the long
term effect of residual caustics left in the system - a system
prone to corrosion as it is. We prefer a regular regimen of
coolant changes, using the OE coolant.
-- Put everything back together. Be careful not to overtighten
the clamps on the hoses on the plastic pipes. This is a good
opportunity to inspect the ends of those pipes, by the way. There
is a steel insert in the end of each pipe which tends to rust and
swell until the plastic cracks. The end of the pipe will pop
right off with the hose attached to it, causing instant and total
coolant loss in the middle of wherever you happen to be at the
moment. Use new copper seals for the cylinder head drain plugs.
Then it's time to find your bleedin' friend for the rest of the
bleedin' job.
Happy flushing!
Coby
Valley Wagonworks
"Intimately acquainted with VW Vans since 1959"
Volkswagen Bus, Vanagon, Westfalia and Eurovan
Repair and Service Specialists
1535 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo, CA 94933
Voice:(415) 457-5628
Fax: (415) 457-0967
http://wagonworks.com
mailto:contact@wagonworks.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Marshall Ruskin [mailto:mruskin@pangea.ca]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 1999 2:12 PM
To: Coby Smolens
Subject: Re: Re: Air Bleeder Installation/Cooling System Bleeding
Procedure
Hi Coby:
I read with interest the excellent attached post, and I have a
few questions, I hope you don't mind answering them.
FOA, I am a newbie, with an 84 Westy (air, auto),....
It seems to me that this method is primarily for topping up and
bleeding air from a system, is that correct?
What I need to do is completely flush out my old, incorrect
coolant, and then fill it with phosphate and silicate free
coolant. This method is not for that, correct?
I can't find a straight-forward answer as to what exactly to do -
can you please help me? I sure would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Marshall Ruskin
Winnipeg, Canada
-----Original Message-----
From: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Date: Saturday, June 05, 1999 2:20 AM
Subject: Re: Air Bleeder Installation/Cooling System Bleeding Procedure