Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:34:38 +0200
Reply-To: "Dr. Rainer Woitok" <woitok@RRZE.UNI-ERLANGEN.DE>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Dr. Rainer Woitok" <woitok@RRZE.UNI-ERLANGEN.DE>
Organization: RRZE (Regionales Rechenzentrum Erlangen)
Subject: Re: Drive shaft removal (Syncro)
In-Reply-To: Msg <00f101beb29f$e064d000$6f6f6f6f@aptiva> of 1999- 6- 9
10:45:05 -0700 from bpchristensen@mindspring.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Brent and all you other Syncronauts,
On Wed, 1999-06-09 10:45:05 -0700, Brent Christensen wrote:
> ...
> Would any of you Syncronauts out there recommend removing the drive shaft
> and carrying it with me until reaching the back country?
I would not generally recommend that because under extreme conditions
(like emergency maneuvers) a 4WD Syncro handles better than a 2WD
Syncro. But if your viscous coupling is already rather tight you could
remove some of the strain on the various components by removing the
drive shaft (been there, done that).
However, I'm not going to buy some other listees' comments that a
removed drive shaft might put additional stress on the front diff or on
the viscous coupling. True, the viscous coupling is now driven by the
front axles and the front diff, but its other (free) end just happily
rotates in the open air ... I really can't see how this should do any
harm.
> If anyone has done
> this, where did you stow the drive shaft while underway?
On the floor right in front of the rear seat bench. But then, I've got
a passenger van, not a Westy. And yes, as somebody else has already
pointed out, it could be a real mess if the drive shaft were muddy
... :-)
> How long does it
> take to R & R?
Well, it largely depends on how fast you're working :-) ... Ok,
seriously, perhaps half an hour when you do it the first time, less
later. It's only four nuts and bolts (13mm, sometimes only 12mm) on
either side, but due to the geometry you can only use open wrenches
there. You don't even need a jack. I've done it on the plain ground.
Before you undo the bolts mark the flages, so you later know which end
goes where and how the drive shaft was aligned relative to the gearbox
and front diff flange. When the bolts are removed the drive shaft
doesn't simply fall down, you'll have to persuade it by gently driving a
screw driver between the flanges ... well, the correct way as per the
German factory repair manual would be to loosen the three 17mm nuts
which hold the front diff in place, so the front diff could move a
little out of the way (by all means don't forget to retighten these
nuts!).
> ...
> I am interested in improving fuel economy, and saving wear & tear on
> the front diff. and VC.
If your viscous coupling really is ok, I wouldn't put my money on any
fuel savings achieved that way. Reason: rather than by the drive shaft
the front wheels as well as the front diff and the viscous coupling
itself are now driven by the road ... but it's still your engine which
keeps them going ...
For much of the same reason I wouldn't expect measurable less wear and
tear on the front diff and the viscous coupling. Provided the viscous
coupling is still ok, and provided your tires front and rear have the
same diameter (within 1 or 2 mm).
However, if you viscous coupling is already shot more or less, you'll
really gain something from removing the drive shaft on the road and
installing it only off the road (but before you get stuck knee deep in
mud :-)
> Anyone ever had vibration problems spontaneously appear after removing and
> then reinstalling the drive shaft without modifying anything?
Not that I know of.
I hope that helps, even though your milage may vary ... :-)
Sincerely
Rainer
'89 Caravelle GL Syncro 16"
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| Rainer M Woitok | Phone: (+49-9131) 85-27811,-27031 |
| Regionales Rechenzentrum | |
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