Date:         Mon, 21 Jun 1999 14:23:16 -0400
Reply-To:     Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Rick Koller <rkoller@HELIX.NIH.GOV>
Subject:      Re: Homemade Wiring Harness Fix - where to find?
Comments: To: Shawn Wright <swright@MAIL.SLS.BC.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <10CBE2204534@mail.sls.bc.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Shawn,
        Here is the procedure I think you are talking about, I just did this to
my '91 gl autobox and it worked like a charm.

Rick Koller
From: smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Tim Smith)
Unsolicited endorsement, from a sample size of one vanagon:  This does work,
cleared my probs immediately, so far for 14months now. My only rec. is that
when installing simply pull back the rubber boot exposing the 4 wires that
go to the connector. Find #s 2 and 4 and simply nick them for a 1/2" or so
to expose the bare copper.  Pry the wire out of the insulation by pushing a
nail/knife under.  Then solder the capacitor right across the bared loops of
copper.  No 15cm leads, no fighting with connector lugs etc. Use some
electrical tape over the solder sites then tuck, everything neatly back
inside the rubber boot.  The capacitor I used was a 25Volt 22microfarad
tantalum type.  I read of mention of the stuttering problems not being
completely solved with 10ufd size, quoted from a LIMBO article (via email)
maybe?
NOTE:  it says to use  #2 as positive, #4 as negative !!!  I used it this way.
Any electrical geeks wanna tell if it makes a diff in this application?
Prolly.

       Radio Shack # RSU 11295805