Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (June 1999, week 4)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 24 Jun 1999 00:05:09 -0400
Reply-To:     Noto-Gaudette <derwin@NET1PLUS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Noto-Gaudette <derwin@NET1PLUS.COM>
Subject:      Re: headlight switch mystery, help!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Leif,

Before you spend the dough on a switch, you can check your headlight switch yet another way by removing it and using a little wire or paper clip or whatever to act IN PLACE OF the switch--I think the widest blade ports are for the headlights. It'll only take you a few moments to figure that out, though, unless the problem is elsewhere. (BTW: I once used part of a disassembled headlight switch--just the piece that has all the blades, but with a wire bypass soldered on to its inner side--for almost two weeks. I left everything hanging out and just pulled off this piece when I didn't want the headlights on. I did live in fear that this would damage something, somewhere, though...so far, so good.) My luck with junkyard switches was not good.

Another time I thought I had a bad switch, when in fact I had some corrosion on the blades of the ground unit. To find this piece, drop the fuse box under the driver's dashboard (this requires removing only two screws) and look above where the fuses were, and a little off to the left. There are two of these circular grounding units there, sort of a brassy-yellow color, each with 8 blades and (on my 1983-1/2 Westy) about five wires attached. For each ground, count the wires or else pull them off individually (OK, be a smartie and disconnect the ground on the battery, I suppose. If you don't, sparks may very well fly when you're putting the fuse box back up.) Look for corrosion to clean off, which is another common reason for headlight malfunction. I think there's a diagnostic shortcut here--when my ground needed cleaning, my headlights switched on, but were so dim I didn't know they were on until I pulled down the garage door (yes, the van was outdoors) and saw the slightest glimmer of light reflected in the window panes. And I DO mean SLIGHT...like a-dead-in-ten-seconds-flashlight dim. What was happening, I guess (I'm no electrical expert) was that the current was "leaking" to/from somewhere that gave it a lousy, but telltale, substitute ground.

Let us know, hey? Best of luck. -George

> > >I had an interesting problem happen last night on my way home > > from work. My > > > headlights would not turn on with the switch on the dash > > console. All of > > > the other lights worked, (side markers, console dimmer). I removed the > > > dashboard switch and pried it open and cleaned off all of the copper > > > contacts and reassembled (3 times I did this). Still no > > headlights, The > > > only way the headlights will come on is by pulling and HOLDING the turn > > > signal lever on the steering column. I had to hold it for 40 > > minutes while > > > I drove home. Unfortunately, this turns on the low beams as well as the > > > high beams. So my apologies if you were one of the million > > drivers who told > > > me to turn off my F*&%^king brights last night. I figured brights were > > > safer that no headlights at all. Anyway, something has shorted out > > > somewhere, any ideas. one clue; at first I was able to flip the switch > > > repeatedly and they came on a couple of times, but went back > > out after 5-10 > > > minutes of driving. Now not even that will work. help, I > > can't drive at > > > night. > > > > > > Leif Paulsen > > > '86 Syncro "4BY-THOR" > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:38:02 -1000 > From: Leif <leif@CMCFLEX.COM> > Subject: Re: headlight switch mystery, help! > > I have dis-assembled the switch completely and I can see all the contacts > are good and nothing is melted anywhere. I hate to buy a new switch 'cause > I sort of doubt that it's bad. Are there any other relays or something that > could of failed? I am really stumped. My problem is that I can see nothing > mechanically wrong. Thanks for your advice though. > > Leif Paulsen > '86 Syncro "4BY-THOR" > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: KENWILFY@aol.com [mailto:KENWILFY@aol.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 3:26 PM > > To: Leif; vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > > Subject: Re: [VANAGON] headlight switch mystery, help! > > > > > > I had a similar problem and the rear of my switch had overheated > > because the > > plug was cocked a little. The plastic on the back of the switch > > melted and > > pushed the plug off even more. I unplugged the switch, scraped off the > > melted plastic, and it has worked ever since. However I think > > your problem > > is burnt points inside the switch itself. Check the fuse first > > but I really > > think the switch is the problem. Time to buy a new one. > > Ken Wilford > > www.VanAgain.com > > John 3:16 > > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.