Date:         Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:00:49 -0700
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@UVIC.CA>
Subject:      gastank removal/coolant line fix
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I've spent the last 2 days under the van ('82 westy, I4 gas) working at what
I thought would be a 4 hour job.

It started with purpose of tracking down the cause of a gasoline smell that
i would sometimes notice after fill-up. I hoped it would be only a cracked
breather hose or split tank grommet, not a rusty tank. I assembled
replacement parts (grommets, hose, clamps), read Jack Reed's article in the
"tech files", built some ramps and set to work.

The tank comes out quite easily, (esp. if you cut the vent hoses), and i
dragged it out from under the van for inspection. I was really amazed at
what good condition it was in. The "tunnel" sections where others have found
rust, was perfectly sound. I did see some superficial rust on one of the
raised areas of the tank, strange as it is an area one would not expect any
moisture to pool.

I cleaned the dust off removed all of the rubber grommets and sanded the
bits of rust then applied some rust-converter type stuff. After that had
cured I painted the top of the tank with some homemade ersatz "Waxoyl". This
was abit of an experiment, please, no sniggering. I melted together beeswax,
paraffin wax, motor oil, pine tar, and asphaltum (foundation coating
actually), to make a coating that can be painted on while warm but cools to
a greasy, waxy solid. Well, if it doesn't work as a rust proofer I can
always use it as a onestep antique wood finish.

I made up new breather lines (used the "pinch with side-cutters" type
clamps, the same as was originally used), replaced the gommets and made
ready to reinstall.

While the tank was out I lubed the shift linkage, there is a joint and
bushings that are hard to reach with the tank inplace. I also looked up at
the coolant lines and noticed the orange stain of leaked coolant. No drips,
just wetness.

argh

To find out exactly where the hole was i pressurised the cooling system
using a bike pump connected to the bleeder nipple on the radiator. A few
pumps and the system was up to 20psi and I could see that the leak was on
one of the coolant lines, the one that connects to the bottom of the
radiator (not, as I had hoped, a heater line). I also found a leak on a
heater hose at a connection back over the transmission.

I used an angle grinder to cut the leaky coolant line, I couldn't get it out
in one piece. The steel pipe was in very good shape at the cut end, I had
expected a rusty looking mess. Closer examination revealed little spots of
rust on the welded seam about the size of a pinhead...bad weld? inclusions?
The leak was on the seam...

I bought 13 feet of 1.25 ID coolant hose (Coast Industrial in Victoria, ~$4
a foot, ouch). Tim Smith used 1" ID hose on his replacement job, and that
probably is a better way to go. The 1.25" ID stuff has the advantage of
connecting straight up to the rad and the engine (via a hose barb) but I
think it would be a very tight fit to get two hoses through the "crossbeam
cut out" under the van.

Yes, I only replaced the leaky pipe...

It took me much longer than I had planned to re-install everything, but I
took the opportunity to re-route some accessory electrical lines

I took me a couple of tries to get the gas tank re-installed. The best
method I found was to lie on my back, head facing the rear of the van and
haul the tank up onto my legs. Using my knees I could raise the forward edge
of the tank up onto the ledge on the crossbeam, connect the fuel guage
sender wire, and then raise the rear of the tank up into position. A few
wooden block held the tank up while i installed the straps and screwed them
down.

I found it easier to re-install the filler pipe as two assemblies - the pipe
and the filler cap assembly.


So far everything looks good, no more gas smell, and I hope no more coolant
leaks (for now!)

Alistair

PS I think its a pretty good idea to do that pressure test of the coolant
system, better to find out at home than on the road