Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:01:04 -0700
Reply-To: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Coby Smolens <cobys@WELL.COM>
Subject: Re: Heater Leak
In-Reply-To: <6388BF1107@msvu1.msvu.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
No. The price of testing and repairs is close to the replacement cost, then
you have an old fixed core to wrestle back under the seat. Go new on this
one.
Coby Smolens, Owner
Valley Wagonworks
"Intimately acquainted with VW Vans since 1959"
1535 Sir Francis Drake Blvd.
San Anselmo, CA 94960
Phone: (415) 457-5628
Fax: (415) 457-0967
http//:wagonworks.com
mailto:contact@wagonworks.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
Of Malcolm Stebbins
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 1999 7:42 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Heater Leak
No one is suggesting taking the heater core to a radiator place and having
it
pressure tested. Would this not be a logical step prior to buying a new
one?
Malcolm S
Brad wrote:
> That leads me to believe that the heater core is leaking, right?
> It sure does. I just replaced mine a week ago. Start by getting a
> replacement: I got mine from a junkyard. Make sure it is incredibly clean
> and doesn't have visible corrosoin between the vanes. Also, inspect the
> valve housing for any apparent leaking; I understand there is a gasket in
> there that can be replaced, but I haven't done that. BTW: Any edits by you
> wrench-heads are welcome by me! Do what I did: * Pull fuse from
> panel for rear heater to isolate the electrical stuff. * Remove
> wooden kickstrip from seat frame (four self-tapping screws) * Remove
> fiberglass cover (six screws); this is not easy, it goes around the output
> vents. A good amount of pushing and pulling will free it. * Remove
> mounting screws (2) from fan/heater housing. Disconnect wiring. Place a
> pan under unit to catch coolant. * Clamp hoses with something to
> stop the flow from the cooling system. If you use Vise Grips or something
> like that, protect the hoses by wrapping the teeth in duct tape. Clamp
> them upstream enough so that you can back the spring clamps off the
> fitting. * Release spring clamp on lower hose and remove; allow to
> drain in the pan. Release spring clamp and remove top hose. This will
> allow the rest of the collant in the core to go, so be ready with the pan.
> * Remove core from housing (2 screws). Clean housing as best you
> can; coolant left in there will smell like a leak later. At this point, I
> reattached the mounting brackets (the riveted ones) that got loosened
> during removal with screws after drilling out the rivets. * Install
> new core and reconnect hoses. Start engine, allow coolant to heat up, and
> check for leaks from core and hose fittings. I needed to trim back one of
> my hoses to get a good seal. Be carefull if you have to remove the hoses
> because the system is hot and pressurized! * If there are no leaks,
> attach unit to floor and reconnect electrical goodies. * At this
> point, I hacked off the section of the cover that goes underneath the
> vents to ease replacement. You can't see it anyway. Replace the cover. *
> Replace kick strip and fuse and you should be ready to go!
>
> Good Luck!
>
> [Brad Anderson]
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tony [SMTP:cogbox1@XMISSION.COM]
> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 2:29 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Heater Leak
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > Just a quick question that I saw addressed here a while back but didn't
> > pay attention because I didn't have the problem at the time :) The '90
> > that I am buying does have a wet carpet in front of the rear bench. That
> > leads me to believe that the heater core is leaking, right? What is the
> > fix on that? Is it in the archives? If so, when was it listed and under
> > what?
> >
> > thanks you guys
> >
> > I LOVE VW'S (and the tattoo proves it!)
> >
> > Tony
> > '90 GL (tonight)
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