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Date:         Wed, 21 Jul 1999 09:19:33 -0400
Reply-To:     EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Subject:      Re: N. NE Mechanic advice (was: Syncro vibrations... I think
              it'stim              e for a mechanic!)
Comments: To: Steve Schwenk <sxs@CONCENTRIC.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <3794AAE1.616C88C@concentric.net>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Thank you Steve for the legal B.S. As for the next person who sues me for anything of this nature (there own stupidity) will be a very unhappy person.....if they live!

Eric 86-VW4x4 vw4x4@fyi.net 72-240z Pittsburgh, PA USA 1936-Chrysler

On Tue, 20 Jul 1999, Steve Schwenk wrote:

> Don't do this unless you have the right jack stands > (theyre are a lot of cheapos out there), know where & > how to palce them and know what you are doing. It is > not hard to see this experiment resulting in death, > should things go wrong. > > EMZ wrote: > > > > If the vibration is that bad, try this. I did this years ago. > > Jack up all four wheel, on good strong jack stands, about 2 inches > > off the ground. Have someone start the van and run thru the gears > > until the vibration is at it's worst. You should be able to > > climb under the Van and see the drive shaft, or whatever, shacking. > > > > Eric 86-VW4x4 > > vw4x4@fyi.net 72-240z > > Pittsburgh, PA USA 1936-Chrysler > > > > On Tue, 20 Jul 1999, Fitz-Randolph, Douglas wrote: > > > > > Thanks to all who replied with suggestions about the causes of my vibrations > > > (see excerpt from original post below). I was really looking for advice on > > > good mechanics in the Northern New England area - there don't seem to be any > > > listed on either the Vanagon site or on Karl Bloss's list. Derek Drew > > > supplied Gordi Davis in NH, but that was the only suggestion. What do all > > > you other N. NE. syncronauts do when you've got syncro-specific problems? > > > > > > For those inclined to speculate on the causes of the vibrations, in addition > > > to the original post (below), let me add the following: > > > > > > 1) The vibrations are so bad that it feels like I am driving on railroad > > > tracks - the ties, not the rails. > > > 2) I made the following repairs with no effect on the vibrations: > > > - New rotors, calipers and pads > > > - New bearings installed by mechanic > > > - Front outer CV joints inspected (OK) repacked, new boots - by mechanic > > > - Driveshaft u-joints replaced (once) and balanced (twice) by driveline > > > shop. > > > 3) The vibrations occur both with my brand new Michelin MXT's and my old > > > Nokian Hak' LT10 snow tires - both with different sets of wheels. > > > > > > Anyway, all suggestions/advice is appreciated! > > > > > > Doug Fitz-Randolph > > > Yarmouth, ME > > > dfrandolph@talkam.net > > > '90 Syncro > > > > > > Original post: << I started having these vibrations - body of car, not > > > steering wheel or brake pedal - when applying power at certain speeds. They > > > spread to other speeds over the course of a few months, and in the last week > > > (with driveshaft) increased exponentially and became so bad that I thought > > > it best not to drive the van. Removed the driveshaft, presto - problem gone. > > > The u-joints were in sorry shape - binding and sticking - so I had them > > > rebuilt by a local driveline shop. Reinstalled the driveshaft - the > > > vibrations weren't quite as severe, but were still completely unacceptable - > > > driving the van still didn't seem like a good idea. Took the driveshaft back > > > - he rebalanced it - no difference. He said "there's no way just a bad > > > driveshaft could be causing vibration like that". My door lock buttons were > > > unscrewing all by themselves! The front bearings and outer CV joints check > > > out fine, the inner CV's were both replaced about 10-20,000 miles ago. >> > > > >


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